REI Community
Deviation, Lower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
East Face, Lower Deviation T 
Lower Deviation Right T 

East Face, Lower Deviation 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 300
Submitted By: George Bell on Oct 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

  • Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This face looks fun but the rock is friable and it is scary if you're expecting a friendly continuation of the 3rd Flatiron. There is virtually no protection.

    In general, the farther right you are on this face, the easier it is.

    Eds. note, the rating has been changed to reflect input from climbers below.


    For the standard route, start in the middle of the face and follow a ramp up and right, then back left to the summit.


    Very little is available. There is a piton ~75 feet up.

    Comments on East Face, Lower Deviation Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 1, 2008

    We attempted a route on the far left side of this face. About 75 feet up is a belay stance with an ancient piton. There is very little to back the piton up.

    Above the next 40 feet look tricky, but are probably only about 5.8. It's not clear if there will be any protection. Rather than risk a lead fall onto the piton, we retreated.
    By neil chelton
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jan 21, 2010

    I also attempted a route on the left side of the east face. The guidebook explains this goes at 5.0, so I just wandered up there without a rope. After about 70 feet, I encountered surprisingly hard moves on crumbling rock, this felt at least 5.8, not 5.0. I also retreated. Has anyone climbed this?
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 4, 2014

    Didn't read this until after I headed up there. When I hit the worst of the crumbling rock at about a meter below the overlap, I turned around and down-climbed the crumbling crap below me back to the base.
    The climbing isn't HARD per se. I'd probably run right up it on a rope., but there remains the question of the safety of soloing on this stuff. Roach called the formation "scruffy and unpleasant", and I'd say that's about right.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About