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Unsorted Routes:

East Face Direct 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: John Steiger & John Fowler, Sept 3, 2006
Season: Summer
Page Views: 3,102
Submitted By: John Steiger on Jul 21, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Second pitch, from the stance.


This route takes a line between the Keith-Eddy East Face and the Beyer East Face II, and shares the same approach as described by the Ortenburger and Jackson guidebook. About 10m left of the double cracks marking the start of Beyer II is a right-facing dihedral choked with large blocks. Third class to a good belay ledge on one of the blocks in the dihedral.

(1) The first pitch is intricate. From the ledge, step down and right to a weakness that turns into an easy shallow corner after several moves. A few meters up the corner step out right to an incipient crack that is used to gain an obvious flake further to the right. The flake is just below the long, black horizontal break/roof system stretching from the base of the Eddy-Keith dihedral across the face to the initial Beyer II dihedral. Make a few moves right along the top of the flake and turn the bulge above the horizontal break to a small left-facing dihedral. Work right and climb up another small corner to a small roof, which is skirted on the left into a shallow left-facing corner. Continue up the corner until possible to traverse right and up into another shallow left-facing corner. Climb this corner and weakness above for ~12m to a small but secure belay alcove. (55m).

(2) Ascend an obvious finger crack above and left of the belay to its end, then step left (past an obvious protruding rock) to another crack that ends on a ledge. Make a few moves left, surmount a bulge, then continue straight up easy ground to a belay on broken ledges. (60m).

(3) Climb straight up the slab above, aiming for the left end of a large rectangular roof on top of the slab. Belay from a sloping ledge next to the roof. (65m).

(4) Ascend the easy left-facing dihedral above, which changes to a steeper right-facing corner. Climb the hand crack in the corner to its end on top of a large flake, then traverse right and up for about 5m to an intermittent crack system. Belay 15m higher at a small stance. (52m).

(5) Continue up the crack system until it arches right and ends under short headwall. Step right and climb the headwall to easy climbing ending on top of the initial Underhill Buttress. (35m). (6) Join the Underhill Ridge or its variations to the summit. (~300m).


The Ortenburger and Jackson guidebook provides direction to get there and get off. Beware of the photodiagram on plate 43; Beyer II appears misdrawn.


One set of brass nuts and wired stoppers; double cams from 3/8 to 3 inch (one 3 1/2" cam may be helpful); many slings; 60m rope. No bolts or other fixed gear.

Photos of East Face Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fourth pitch, initial dihedral.
BETA PHOTO: Fourth pitch, initial dihedral.
Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch, after turning the bulge above break.
BETA PHOTO: First pitch, after turning the bulge above break.

Comments on East Face Direct Add Comment
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By Nick Stayner
From: Wymont Kingdom
Aug 13, 2007

Just curious, but what makes this the "Direct" route on the face? Do you have any photos of the entire route?
By Allen Sanderson
From: Oootah
Aug 17, 2007

Cause it goes directly up the face. HA HA. Here is a picture of the face.

It is just to the right of the thin set of black streaks that are to the right of Keith Eddy and lead to down to the rather small snow patch.
By Nick Stayner
From: Wymont Kingdom
Aug 18, 2007

Oh. Forgive me for not recognizing a "direct" line on a rectangular buttress that doesn't lead to a summit! That's like calling The Snaz the Cathedral Rock Direct or something... just kiddin with ya. The E. Face area is awesome, lots of potential for new stuff and harder variations to existing routes. Good rock, great cracks.... nice work.

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