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East Face Cirque - Several Routes for the Explorer T 
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East Face Cirque - Several Routes for the Explorer 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 200', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R [details]
FA: Ed Palen & Others
Page Views: 97
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Jul 8, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Some East Cirque Climbs

Description 

If you liked Bottle Slide followed by Bottleneck, then this cirque is here for you to explore.

See "Location" for approach

Route 1 - East Face Direct 5.5 R FA Unknown Well...perhaps not as "direct" as the variation, but more direct than any of the class 4 scrambling.

Start left of the large L-facing corner (photo). Go Up and left over small overlaps to a right-facing corner. Up this to a R-facing flake. Continue on lower angled rock to a short wall (guidebook says 3 ft, I guess that's correct, I don't remember). Belay 40ft above at a R-facing corner.

Route 1 A - Variation East Face Direct 5.6 R FA R. Hall, Ed Palen, S. Matz, summer 2004 Directly up from the start to the belay above. Much cleaner rock, including a beautiful crux white slab where it would have been very nice to have a thin-bladed piton.

Other routes here are Fee, Fie, Foe, Fum 5.7 PG (& 5.4R) and Beanstalk 5.8 TR See Adirondack Rock by Lawyer & Haas.

DESCENT- Ideally you have a car spotted on Rt73, if so scramble (100 yds +/-) from the top of the climb(s) up to the trail. Hike down the trail to the car.

Location 

Your adventure begins at the State Parking on Rt 9N about 6 miles east of the Rt73 / 9N junction in Keene. (Or 4 miles west of Elizabethtown.)

Hike the trail past Owl Head Lookout (different from the Owls Head off of Rt 73 in Cascade Pass) and past High Bank (see photo, good view of the cirque). When close to the stream on your left (south) drop down and follow it uphill. When it splits, follow the left branch (climber's left) Continue up this about 1 hr to another split, take the right branch which is followed to a 3rd junction where another right is taken. This should lead you to a steep rubble/dry creek (photo) and then onto the low-angle slabs (photos). Continue up to the base. If you haven't gotten lost, this should take about 4 -5 hours. Adirondack Rock gives GPS co-ordiantes, if you want them.

Alternately, one could hike up Giant and then drop down into the cirque. People who have done this say the best place is from the Giant-Rocky Peak Col.

Protection 

Alpine Rack, be sure to take a #2 (Gold Camalot) sized-Cam.


Photos of East Face Cirque - Several Routes for the Explorer Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Approach Photo#2 - The Rocky, dry stream bed
BETA PHOTO: Approach Photo#2 - The Rocky, dry stream bed
Rock Climbing Photo: Approach Photo#1 - Ed & Sheila and the East Face f...
Approach Photo#1 - Ed & Sheila and the East Face f...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ed Palen starting the "Direct"
BETA PHOTO: Ed Palen starting the "Direct"
Rock Climbing Photo: Approach Photo #4 - Nearly at the base of the tech...
BETA PHOTO: Approach Photo #4 - Nearly at the base of the tech...
Rock Climbing Photo: Approach Photo#3 - Reaching the "First Step&q...
BETA PHOTO: Approach Photo#3 - Reaching the "First Step&q...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking Up at the big R-facing Inside Corner in th...
BETA PHOTO: Looking Up at the big R-facing Inside Corner in th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ed looks at the big R-facing corner. "Fee, Fi...
BETA PHOTO: Ed looks at the big R-facing corner. "Fee, Fi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark ...( on "Direct" ?)
Mark ...( on "Direct" ?)
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark - I think starting the Variation (Yes, that&#...
BETA PHOTO: Mark - I think starting the Variation (Yes, that&#...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ed further up the "Direct" (That's n...
BETA PHOTO: Ed further up the "Direct" (That's n...

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