|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b Mod. Snow [details]|
|FA:||Preston Rhea - 4.10.12|
|Submitted By:||Preston Rhea on Dec 25, 2013|
|Comments on East Face, Central Gully||Add Comment|
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By Preston Rhea
From: Mammoth Lakes
Dec 25, 2013
|I soloed this route in a fairly low snow year (Mammoth Mountain Ski Area reported 263 inches of snow for the 11/12 season). The upper snowfield was fully "in" however. It is unknown to me if I actually did the first ascent since Crystal Crag is such a close and popular summit in an area with a long history of climbing. There are two routes, mentioned in Mammoth Area Rock Climbs by Marty Lewis and John Moynier, that are close to the route I took, but distinctly different. In the summer, the climb would be ugly, as the upper snowfield would be replaced by loose moderate slabs. From asking around, as much as I can tell the line had not yet been climbed, at least in winter conditions. If anyone here knows more than I, I'd love to hear about it and will gladly change the FA information.|
By Ian McEleney
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Dec 3, 2015
Climbed this 5 days ago. It was cold (7F at Twin Lakes at 8am) and there was snow on the route. The route gets pretty much no sun at this time of year. We started the same but dealt with the snowfield differently than Preston's description.
We climbed the first step in about 30m to a ledge. From here we climbed another maybe 30m pitch left and up. These two pitches were fairly easy, we felt like they clocked in at maybe M3. From here we climbed easier terrain for 50m+ following the lower left edge of the snowfield in Preston's beta photo. Finally another long pitch directly to the summit up a low angle slab covered in snow. The rock quality on this last pitch was good but because it was less featured and covered in snow it was an interesting lead.
We brought a single rack from .3 - 3 BD and a few small pins.