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Eichorn Pinnacle
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East Face, Center Crack T 
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East Face, Center Crack 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,098
Submitted By: Evan Wisheropp on Aug 26, 2014

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Leading the crux section of the offwidth. Blending...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The center crack on the east face is the obvious gnarly looking offwidth going up the center of the pinnacle as visible from Cathedral Peak.

Belay on a small 2x2' shelf a few feet below (on the south side) of the saddle at the base of the pinnacle. There are several gear options for a solid belay anchor. Step out off the ledge with a lot of air suddenly below your heels and begin to traverse up and left aiming for the short hand crack roof. Once at the small roof, continue straight up that crack all the way to the summit. The entire route overhangs about 8 feet from the base.

The crack gradually widens from 1" at the small roof to 7" at the very top. The hand and fist jams are solid and are deep in the flaring slot, while awkward, it provides good rests. The offwidth section is also rounded over and slightly flaring making it tough to get deep enough for solid arm bars/locks and is quite relentless between rest stances. Irregularities in the width of the upper half of the offwidth make pushing a cam the whole way impractical, so I recommend two #6 cams.

Does anyone have any information on the FA?

Protection 

One #1 metolius for the start, then a single set of cams from #.5-6, and doubles of #2, 3, 4, 6.


Photos of East Face, Center Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: What a great lead! Why is this not more popular??
What a great lead! Why is this not more popular??
Rock Climbing Photo: Center crack on the East Face of Eichorn Pinnacle
Center crack on the East Face of Eichorn Pinnacle

Comments on East Face, Center Crack Add Comment
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By Evan Wisheropp
Aug 26, 2014

I tried to lead this several years ago and chickened out when the wind was howling so hard we couldn't keep the rope from blowing me off, and ended up doing the shorter crack to the right (a great route).

I don't know if this route has much of a history with being led, it did not appear very traveled; there were lots of loose flakes and a few sections of decomposing granite layers that I ended up having to pull or scrape off during my ascent that definitely added to the adventure. This is easily one of the most aesthetics lines in Tuolumine, but it makes you work; both on the climb and the approach (we climbed SE Buttress with a backpack of offwidth gear).

The offwidth flares just so your knee only gets a little bit of purchase in the actual crack the chicken wings and arm bars are all flaring and delicate. the face holds on the outside are small, infrequent, and delicate (breakable). Two #6 cams are needed after the horizontal.

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