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South Summit of Green Mountain
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East Face (3rd Tower) T 

East Face (3rd Tower) 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 600', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R [details]
FA: Tony B., Stuart P., tandem solo, 9/4/14
Season: Closed Feb 1-Aug 1.
Page Views: 124
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 7, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: The route starts below this house-sized boulder/ov...

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  • Description 

    Start just below the massive block and roof, 80' over the ground. Climb directly below this on good edges and slopers (5.5) to reach a point under the roof. Go left here and onto the ledge that the massive (house-sized) boulder is perched on.

    Go left and back behind the boulder into a cave, emerging on the right side. Climb over and onto a blunt arete just over a few bushes in a tiny gully or gravel. The big boulder and cave are now about 5 meters to your left.

    Climb up and generally right up and through a series of blunt aretes to the top of this rock. The far right of the arete is generally easier and less exposed but also not as clean or solid.

    Pick your way up and over to the top of a tower that lies 2 towers to the North (100 yards?) of the true summit of the South Peak of Green Mountain.

    To descend, scramble over some chimneys to the North along the ridge until you are only 4 meters above the ground to the West. Scramble down some large flakes to the ground to the West from here. You are now in are area called 'The Sacred Cliffs.

    To return to your car, you go South down the hill to the Bear Canyon trail, ~ 1 mile crosscountry. You better have not left anything at the base!

    Location 

    This route starts just to the right of the base of the South summit of Green Mountain and just North of the ridge that connects that to the West side of Dinosaur Mountain.

    Walk North along the base until you find yourself immediately below an boulder and overhang the size of a house (see picture). The route starts here and follows a system of blunt aretes to the right to rise up and North to an airy summit.

    Protection 

    A standard light rack could be employed to protect and belay on this route, but much of it would be runout, regardless. We simply soloed it.


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    Rock Climbing Photo: Stuart P. on solo on the East Face (3rd tower) of ...
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