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East Face  T 

East Face  

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 280'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
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Page Views: 235
Submitted By: geoff georges on Nov 14, 2014

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the bolt that protects the face climb run-out on l...

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Description 

The main attraction here is the challenging 1st pitch. 3 stars for 1st pitch, 2 stars for upper 2 pitches if cleaned.
This pitch was cleaned by Shaun Johnson in 2012. It is also the pitch that gives the route the 10c/d rating. A very thin seam provides some descent pro and excellent climbing with a leftward traverse crux mid way up. It is somewhat run out above this, then larger gear works and you top out on a large ledge.

Pitch 2: 5.9, also some great climbing off the ledge on your right following good cracks through steep slot. We went left and into a steep mossy corner, you could go right out onto face but pro looked scant. Climb through a roof following more good cracks. Belay at bush on sloping ledge. this pitch would be great if clean.

Pitch 3: 5.9/10a veer left to nice finger crack over bulge to lower angle crack, follow right and steeply up to another small roof, pull through on good hand jams. I encountered a ancient wood block and sling here. slanting crack winds left around onto the South face. Pull up on horizontal cracks toward another corner on the left, pretty sustained hand jams till on a ledge with a 1/4" button head above you. Really run out moves here, but pretty easy, ok pro above the bolt, and top out on blocks at the summit of Easter tower.
This pitch is also dirty, mostly just lichen.

Location 

it is a easy walk over from the main Snow Creek wall to the right on grassy ledges. You will see that the first pitch was cleaned. It is on the left side of the buttress.

Protection 

large rack to 3". small cams and small brass nuts are good on first pitch. Doubles in all cams helpful. the upper pitches are more hand sizes. One could break up the long pitches to have less pro, but there are not great stances other then the obvious ones we found.
The rap is down the back (west) side, slung rocks. take the gully on the south side. We down climbed the middle and did a short repel at the end.


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Rock Climbing Photo: 1st pitch
1st pitch

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