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East Face - Lower

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Hitchcock Gully 
Left Hand Monkey Wrench 
LHMW Bypass 
Willard Slab Right 

East Face - Lower Rock Climbing 


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Location: 44.2063, -71.40769 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,334
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kurtz on Jan 31, 2015
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BETA PHOTO: East Face Lower & Upper Note the Distance from Hit...

Description 

Honestly, the lower routes on the East Face of Mt. Willard aren't the best but you need to get above them to access much better climbing on the upper tier.

Lower Hitchcock Gully is often a mixed climb so Left Hand Monkey Wrench sees most of the traffic and there is often a wait. If you continue traversing right past LHMW about 75 ft, you'll reach a big flow of low-angle ice/snow that will get you to the upper tier in 2 pitches of climbing and 1 pitch of steep trail. You'll end up right at the start of The Cleft.

Getting There 

From the parking lot at the top of the Notch, walk south on the RR tracks about 500 yards. Stop at a small white cross memorial for "Richard Graves" on the right side of the tracks. (May be covered in deep snow.) Put on your crampons and hike/climb this steep trail which leads (bear left at the top) to Lower Hitchcock Gully. For Left Hand Monkey Wrench, take a traversing trail on the right about 35 yds before reaching LHG.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.7 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in East Face - Lower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for East Face - Lower:
Left Hand Monkey Wrench   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch   
Hitchcock Gully   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-     Ice, 2 pitches   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in East Face - Lower

Featured Route For East Face - Lower
Rock Climbing Photo: Chad professing his love for ice at the base of LH...

Left Hand Monkey Wrench WI3  New Hampshire : * Ice and Mixed Climbing : ... : East Face - Lower
A great pitch to avoid the mixed climbing on Lower Hitchcock, or to bypass a slower party. Not a bad climb in itself either....[more]   Browse More Classics in New Hampshire

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