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East Face - 1st Tier

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L to R R to L Alpha
Angel Dust S 
Breeze Crack T 
Prodigal Son S 

East Face - 1st Tier Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 6,035'
Page Views: 1,689
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Nov 2, 2011

87° | 61°

79° | 59°

75° | 59°

80° | 59°

82° | 59°

81° | 58°
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This is a subarea entry to help facilitate the L->R ordering of routes, since this massif belies ordinary organization.

The routes here are on the East Face of Keyhole Rock, which is listed as "Sleeping Giant" on the park map.

The routes here go from Dancin' Fool, 9, to Overhang, 10 R.

Getting There 

There are closer parking spots to the Northwest and South of the formation on Juniper Way Loop that circles around to the West of the climbing formations. Parking at either and a short hike on trail and then off trail briefly around either the north or south ends will lead you to this lowest tier. The base of the tier is in a gully/wash area.

However, the park is small, so you could easily walk from the North main parking area between North and South Gateway Rocks and head south past Montezuma's Tower and then Keyhole Rock.

Climbing Season

For the Garden of the Gods area.

Weather station 6.3 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in East Face - 1st Tier

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for East Face - 1st Tier:
Angel Dust   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in East Face - 1st Tier

Featured Route For East Face - 1st Tier
Rock Climbing Photo: Here you can easily see the first pin, but I can't...

Angel Dust 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13  Colorado : Colorado Springs : ... : East Face - 1st Tier
The crux is low and is well-protected, though getting to the first pin may prove challenging to some. Above that, the climbing to the next bolt is still a little challenging. This bolt with the shiny hanger is deceptive. It looks like a nice new bolt from the ground, but it's actually an old and poorly positioned bolt, with a hanger that doesn't lie flat. If fallen on, it is likely the hanger would lever the bolt out, in which case you would now be looking at a groundfall. The climbing abov...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

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