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Elevation: 6,506 ft
GPS: 39.64845, -107.52733
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 73,941 total · 647/month
Shared By: Alvaro Arnal on Oct 29, 2014
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Parking issues DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The crags at East Elk Creek are more recently developed and offer some superb (and some sub-par) climbing on generally good, sharp, and steep limestone. Endurance is the name of the game here with many of the route anchors perfectly placed at 30-35 meters. The length of the routes and the character of the rock lends itself to harder routes in the 5.12-5.13 and higher range.

Tread lightly; most of these routes still require some climber mileage to really clean up, and broken holds are not a rare occurrence here.

Development is still on-going. Currently there are two established crags that are accessed from East Elk Creek: Hogwarts and the Distillery. Click on the sub-areas for more detail and routes lists.

Getting There Suggest change

From New Castle, travel west on County Road 245, which can be found at the west end of main street by following the sign for "National Forest Service Access." Take the turnoff to East Elk Creek (look for signs for the HOA Campground). Follow East Elk Creek Road for about 4 miles; the road turns to dirt for the last 1/2 mile. Park at the large parking area with an outhouse and hike the rest of the way in by passing through the gate on the right (NOT the left gate- this is private property!) The road you hike in on parallels the private property line via an easement until you reach Forest Service Land.

Please, please respect the private property and do not trespass!

69 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: East Elk Creek Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at East Elk Creek

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
 6
Traverse - West Face (R to L)
Boulder
V2+ 5+
 8
Intimidator
Boulder
V3-4 6A+
 4
Anthropic Principal
Boulder
V5 6C
 8
Stinkin' Lincoln
Boulder
V6 7A
 5
West Face
Boulder
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Eye of the Gecko
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Bones
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 18
Moscow Mule
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 24
Sangria
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 34
Daily Prophet
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 10
Cuervo Gold
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 8
Dobby
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Pork Rind
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 17
Bombay Sapphire
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
This Little Piggie Got Pumped
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Traverse - West Face (R to L) New Castle Boul… > Intimidator Boulder
 6
V2 5+ Boulder
Intimidator New Castle Boul… > Intimidator Boulder
 8
V2+ 5+ Boulder
Anthropic Principal New Castle Boul… > Shady Character
 4
V3-4 6A+ Boulder
Stinkin' Lincoln New Castle Boul… > Stinkin' Lincoln
 8
V5 6C Boulder
West Face New Castle Boul… > Holloway Boulder
 5
V6 7A Boulder
Eye of the Gecko Hogwarts
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Bones Hogwarts
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Moscow Mule Distillery
 18
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Sangria Distillery
 24
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Daily Prophet Hogwarts
 34
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Cuervo Gold Distillery
 10
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Dobby Hogwarts
 8
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Pork Rind Hogwarts
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Bombay Sapphire Distillery
 17
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
This Little Piggie Got Pumped Hogwarts
 4
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in East Elk Creek »

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