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East Dihedrals 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 3,366
Submitted By: Peter Gram on May 3, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: 1) Tiger's Den 2) East Dihedrals 3) Jig's Up 4...


The East Dihedrals route is probably the most obvious line on the Dead Snag when looking from a distance. This route starts just a small ways left of Steort's. The anchors for the top of pitches 1 & 2 are both gear anchors.

P1) This pitch climbs the deep right facing dihedral just left of Steort's. Wander up through an easy opening to a bulge move to start the main dihedral. Pull through this cool move, then up the dihedral. When this feature dies out, wander up easy climbing heading a little left to a good ledge/pod below a steep hand crack.

P2) Climb up this hand crack, through another small bulge, then cruise up an easy right facing dihedral until a belay ledge. Another gear anchor.

P3) Take your choice of 5.easy routes to the chain anchors on a big ledge. This pitch is short. Maybe could be combined with P2 with a 60m rope?

Descent) Rap 3 times, using fixed chain anchors. All raps require only one rope and are on good ledges.


Standard Rack.

Photos of East Dihedrals Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Dead Snag cliff from the trail across the road...
BETA PHOTO: The Dead Snag cliff from the trail across the road...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dead Snag w/o lines
BETA PHOTO: Dead Snag w/o lines
Rock Climbing Photo: Marc racks his gear at the top of the first pitch....
Marc racks his gear at the top of the first pitch....
Rock Climbing Photo: Marc heads up the last pitch of East Dihedrals. No...
Marc heads up the last pitch of East Dihedrals. No...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 10, 2014
By Peter Gram
From: Cupertino, CA
May 3, 2004

The route can be seen, pretty much centered, in this photograph. It climbs the obvious right facing dihedral which is a little shaded.

This climb has some 3 star quality climbing on it, but also has some easy wandering up loose rock which deteriorates from the route quality.
By Sheldon Sabbatini
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
May 3, 2004

My first multi-pitch climb. Fun climb.
By Nathan Fisher
Jul 4, 2004
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

East dihedrals suffer from inconsistency. Pitch 1 is decent climbing, but nothing spectacular. The hand crack directly above the 1st belay station is the only part of the climb, in my opinion, that warrants a "classic" 3 star rating, but because the rest of the climb above this point is almost a 4th class scramble it detracts. Definitely an easy lead, regardless of the supposed exposure, because of the easy climbing and the bomber protection throughout. Pitch 2 has a lost nut, please leave as is, as it isn't worth your trouble getting it out.
By Jason Billings
From: Draper, UT
Jun 28, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This is a great little climb that can be done in two pitches with a 60M rope. Climb the first pitch past the two ledges to a nice belay ledge that has a piton about 8 feet up at about 2 o'clock. From here most the exciting climbing is done. I moved out on the face, just left of the piton, and continued up. This climb was great as two pitches, I saw no need for an additonal belay.
By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Aug 5, 2006
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The wire on the lost nut on the last pitch has been chopped. There is also a lost tri-cam on the first pitch, good luck trying to "un-sink the pink". We climbed this in two pitches, just as Jason mentioned (with the belay just below the pin). For the second pitch, finish the dihedral and once it starts to level out, climb out on the face. There is a great crack below a small juniper and the face climbing above the juniper is great too.
By builttospill
May 25, 2009

Who chops a fixed nut?

This route is fun, but should definitely be done in two pitches. Otherwise I'm not sure it would be worth it. Not sustained enough, but worth doing if you're in the area anyway.

A good day is to do all three 5.6 routes on this formation (Steort's, East Dihedrals, North Dihedrals). I left out Jig's Up because when I do Steort's Ridge I always seem to do a "Dead Snag highlight tour" in which I start in the dihedral for East Dihedrals, cut right after the small bulge, sometimes use the thin cracks on Jigs Up (p2) and finish on the arete for Steort's up top. It always just seems more logical this way.
By cragsavvy
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 25, 2010

One of first trad leads, the roof kind of freaked me out. It was good fun though, with good belay set ups and fun corner cracks. Belay at the top of the first pitch from the steort's ridge belay.The top of the second pitch can be set up across from the 2nd rap chains for steort's ridge. You can easy walk to them on easily ledges from there.
By JeffUT
From: Roy, Utah
Oct 11, 2010

First and second pitch were decent, last short pitch was weak. Lost a friend on this one (the wild-country variety). My fiancee got it wedged deep in a crack. At least it was one of my old forged ones. I guess the moral of the story is; once you get a fiance, you are bound to lose some friends!
By Tristan Higbee
From: Ogden, UT
Jun 13, 2012

I combined pitches 1 and 2 with a 70 and belayed on the nice ledge about 40 feet below the top (with about 10-15 feet of rope left). It was great and rope drag wasn't an issue.
By Hendo Henderson
From: Denver, CO
Jul 8, 2013

Great little route that we did (unplanned b/c Steort's was so busy) in the summer. Got a bit of shade behind that dihedral! So I guess it was meant to be. Definitely link pitch 2 and 3 together. I thought the climbing was fun and unique. Definitely worth doing! Almost got hit by a basketball sized boulder from the party above...made me remember I'm not invincible and can't control all the risks...
By Josh Allred
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 4, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Did this with a 60 meter in 2 pitches. Belay at big ledge and then to chains up top. I went over the bulge (the most obvious line to take) on the first pitch. Pretty stout for 5.6. It was a one move kind of deal with good pro. In my opinion, it was the crux of the climb.

There was a TON of chalk to the right that practically goes through the same bulge as Jigs/Steort. That looked way easier. Not sure people can call it 5.6 and skip the crux of the climb. Beside they missed the best move of the whole climb.

1.5 stars for inconsistency.
By Sam Cannon
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 10, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A great option if Steort's is busy or you've done Steort's ridge 100x. The good climbing on this route, imo, is better than the good climbing on Steort's, but as others have noted consistency and positioning are better on Steort's. The two roofs in the dihedrals weren't hard, but they definitely felt like short 5.7 sections. The rest is 5th class. Worthwhile for sure, **/4.

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