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Sugarbun
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Wintergreen S 

East Corner 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Gene Drake and Jim Hicks, 1969
Page Views: 973
Submitted By: Colonel Mustard on Jan 29, 2011

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Description 

Farley's ugly, left-facing cousin, East Corner will more fully test your liebacking skills or it can more easily be climbed as a fist crack if you have your skills honed. If not, this is a great introduction to a skill (fists) you will definitely need if you wish to progress to any degree in Traditional climbing. Keep it together for the near vertical crux before gaining a moderate trough and then a bolt before running it out a bit on easy terrain to chain anchors. There is some loose rock in the trough past the crux, so proceed cautiously. Judicious slinging on the second half of the climb should diminish rope drag.

Location 

This semi-classic pain in the ass is - as the name would suggest - located on the East side of the Sugar Bun. A leaning oak tree is growing right in front of the left-facing crack.

Protection 

Gear up to 4", one bolt.


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By Salamanizer suchoski
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Feb 24, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

PITA lieback??? It's locker fist jams and short. A great intro for the aspiring 5.9 leader who is looking to begin working on their wide technique. An often overlooked classic.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 1, 2011

Haha, what an aghast reaction, but, sadly, for me it was indeed a lieback. I only hope the wide gods can forgive me. The pain in the ass part for me was totally unrelated to the lead, more of a private joke about how I stupidly goofed up the TR anchor for the follower and had to go to some effort to fix it. I do agree that it is an often overlooked classic on the bun, well worth a run when you're there.
By Jamie Silliman
From: Wilton, CA
Nov 10, 2014

I found it pretty sustained 5.9, but great way to get on top of Sugarbun. I jammed it as a fist crack and placed two large pieces down low on the crux. A great climb. There's one bolt at the top to lower off, or easy climb over to "Make that move..." anchor (recommended).

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