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East Canyon

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Middle Earth 

East Canyon Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Mar 11, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: East Canyon.


East Canyon offers a welcome respite from the Puoux. Situated on the hillside between the Puoux and No Name canyon, the gray streaked limestone walls are obvious and alluring from I-70. Climbing here is more secluded and sometimes more adventurous than the Puoux and the interstate below only offers a barely noticeable sound.

The rock here is predominantly high quality, featured, and sharp although the routes tend to be shorter.

The crags face east, offering afternoon shade so depending on the weather, you can climb here spring, summer or fall.

Getting There 

Drive to the No Name exit (#119) on I-70 and take the westbound on-ramp, as if you were headed to Glenwood Springs. Park in a large dirt lot at the end of the on-ramp (there are no parking signs to avoid on the on-ramp). Walk back east (towards No Name) on the on-ramp and look for some trail signs (cairns, stick, etc.) that mark the approach trail which cuts up and left on the dirt sidebank. The trail will zig zag up a small ridge, following cairns, for several minutes until it runs into the remains of the old wood and metal aqueduct. Follow the aqueduct as closely as possible for another five minutes or so until a cairn or two leads up a dirt slope and into the trees where the trail continues. From there follow cairns along a more established and defined trail to the crags which are visible on the left (west) side of the East Canyon drainage. The Gecko Wall is encountered first, followed by Middle Earth and the Hole Wall above.

Expect 20 to 30 minutes, particularly for your first time on the approach.

Climbing Season

For the Glenwood Canyon area.

Weather station 0.8 miles from here

11 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For East Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Within Range (5.10) at the Hole Wall, East Canyon.

Within Range 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  Colorado : Glenwood Springs : ... : Hole Wall
Within Range climbs the obvious gray dihedral on great rock before traversing left on to the face for a steep and exposed finish. Start at the base of the dihedral and make difficult moves to the second bolt. Stemming and good footwork take the bite out of this part. Above, a lot of fun laybacks climb the dihedral feature and through a small bulge before easier terrain on orange rock above. Above the sixth bolt, reach left for the seventh bolt and using good holds traverse out of the dihedral an...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

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