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East Buttress T 
Great White Corner, The T 
Lion Tamer T 

East Buttress 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 250', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ?
Season: Late spring to fall
Page Views: 276
Submitted By: Cqh on Sep 11, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Looking up the second pitch

Description 

A fun easier route up the lions head that needs some more traffic to clean it up. Pitch 1: start at the base of the east ridge line and ascend a low angle corner until it steepens at which point you step to the right of the ridge crest and ascend the same hand crack that goes to the great white corner. Right before the corner step back over the ridge crest to the left and climb up and over a bulge protected by a piton. Belay at the ledge here. Pitch 2: climb up over the bulge above the belay ledge and scamper up the slab to the next belay under a roof. Pitch 3: a very short pitch that involves a crawl/ belly flop to the left and up from under the roof followed by a quick scramble to the summit. To descend walk to the lowest point of the south side and look for some trees with rap slings on them, do two single rope rappels from here.

Location 

The route follows the east ridgeline of lionshead. The approach trail land you at the base of the north face. From here take the path of least resistance up the shoulder to the lookers right of the peak once on top of the shoulder follow the base of the lionshead around its west and south side until your at the base of the east buttress. You will rappel the south side so you can leave packs there.

Protection 

Standard rack to 2 inches


Photos of East Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the third pitch
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the third pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: The east buttress. The route follows the ridge cre...
BETA PHOTO: The east buttress. The route follows the ridge cre...

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