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East Buttress 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jake Bender, Dave Baker, Jan 1970
Season: Not summer
Page Views: 1,714
Submitted By: jbak on Jul 29, 2010

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Looking down pitch 3. The detatched looking block...

Restrictions January 1 - April 30 MORE INFO >>>


From my old Summit Hut guide:

At a point 3.2 miles up the Pima Canyon trail, looking up-canyon, a white rock wall on the west side of the canyon will be noted. The route lies on the right skyline of this wall as viewed from the aforementioned point on the trail. From the trail, any one of a number of bushwhack routes lead to the base of the buttress.

#1. Attack the buttress directly rather than in a chimney to the left. Fifty feet of climbing brings you to a classic jam crack which is followed to Bender's Balcony, a huge ledge easily visible from below.

#2. Bolts protect 40 feet of climbing to a short crack. Now traverse right to a chute and climb up to a belay at a tree.

#3. A short pitch follows a left facing book to a nice ledge.

#4. A sustained though moderate pitch wanders upwards to a belay ledge. Now scramble and bushwhack up and right until a rock ramp is encountered.

#5. Ascend this ramp fourth class, then up and right to the end of the climb.

Descend via the bushwhack route indicated on the SAHC map of the Santa Catalina Mts.


Nuts up to 2.5 inches.

Photos of East Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Table Mtn summit camp.
Table Mtn summit camp.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dolt!  These quarter inchers from 1970 did not ins...
Dolt! These quarter inchers from 1970 did not ins...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2.  Robert cruising past the two bolts and o...
Pitch 2. Robert cruising past the two bolts and o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing the splitter crack at the top of pitch 1....
Climbing the splitter crack at the top of pitch 1....
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1

Comments on East Buttress Add Comment
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By jbak
Jul 29, 2010

If I recall correctly, the approach up Pima Cyn to the East Buttress route is quite a bit mellower than the approach to the routes on the other side. This is a good, moderate adventure outing. The summit of Table Mtn is a cool place to visit regardless of the route chosen to get there.
By adrian korosec
From: tucson,az
Oct 25, 2010

We climbed this route on 10/24/10. Car to summit to car was 8.5 hours with about 2 hours of actual rock climbing. We left the main Pima Canyon trail somwhere around mile 3.5 and choose a great bushwack line up as well as down.

The climbing was fun and the rock was pretty good considering the lack of traffic. The bolts are rusted and need replacing but I don't suspect that'll get done any time soon. I recommend the route.

If your goal is to climb Table Mtn, this route would be way more fun than just hiking it and much less of an undertaking than the other routes on the peak. Take a small rack up to a blue camalot.

Thanks Dave and Jake.
By jbak
Oct 25, 2010

Awesome... makes me want to do it again.

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