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East Buttress
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East Buttress Ridge  

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Sport, Alpine, 600', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: ?
Season: Late June Through Early October (depending on snowfall)
Page Views: 252
Submitted By: A. Ginger on Jul 29, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: East Buttress Ridge is shown by the red line (red ...

Description 

This excellent route follows the prominent ridge line stretching from toe to summit of East Buttress. Great rock, chill approach, easy alpine climbing (only a handful of 5.5 moves), primarily fixed protection, and great views make this one of the best easy climbing outings in the Bozeman area (in my opinion). The way this route was intended to be climbed however is a bit of a mystery to me so if anyone has any info on this line and who established it please message me so I can update this page! Even though there is a prominent line of bolts and pitons there really isn't a super great way to break up the climb into individual pitches due to mostly absent bolted or natural anchors. Because of this, the best way it seems to enjoy this route is to simul-climb. I will describe the route and in doing so I will note the possible areas (at least as far as I saw) to belay to break up the route.

Start this route at the toe of the buttress just to the left of the obvious gully that runs up the center of the buttress. Climb up the blunt toe through cool rock and holds passing bolts and pitons to access the ridge line (5.5). Follow spaced bolts and pitons staying on the ridge eventually leading to an obvious change of ridge lines, where the current ridge you're on becomes too steep and vegetated to continue. The two ridges are separated by a short ledge to cross the gully to the right and continue following black bolts and pitons up another sharp ridge (5.5). There is a possible belay off of a tree just before the ledge crossing, a 70m rope will definitely reach here.

There seems to be a direct line that follows the ridge you cross to from the bottom, I cant say anything for difficulty because I haven't tried it but it seems to be very similar climbing. The approximate line is shown on the topo photo.

After transferring ridges to the right, continue up the now more sharp and exposed arete to a random bolted belay not far from the crossing (not sure a 70m can reach here from the bottom, maybe an 80m?). Follow this ridge to the top of a last triangular headwall feature. From of the top of the triangular headwall step right and climb a short 15ft section of easy 5th class to a tree belay.

To descend, see the descent beta listed on the East Buttress page.

Location 

Start at the toe of the buttress to the left of the obvious gully.

Protection 

Bolts and pitons, you could possibly could supplement with natural pro but would mostly be unnecessary. Bring 8-10 alpine draws and 8-10 quickdraws. Wear your helmet.


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