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East Buttress - Super Grey Pinnacle 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1200', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tony Lewis & Richard Shore 4/23-24/2016 GU
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,254
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Apr 25, 2016

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TL crossing the dike traverse (5.8R) on P6.

Description 

Hidden from sight in a narrow gully behind the Cobblers Bench, the Super Grey Pinnacle is the largest monolithic tower on the Wheeler Crest. The first ascent of this formation was made over a 2-day period in marginal weather conditions, which included a rain-and-snow storm during the summit push. The route features superb slab and knobby face climbing, classic cracks, and airy dike traverses - all on immaculate rock. This climb ranks amongst the best I’ve done in the massif, and in my partners obscure grading system – 5 acorns.

Approach as for the Mayfield Canyon Towers, but go around the right side of Bedrock Tower and then up and left (south) into the gully behind. Scramble up into the gully on the right side of the Cobblers Bench formation. Alternatively, continue north up canyon from Bedrock tower and cut back left onto a bench atop the orange rock band leading to a notch at the base of the tower. Allow 3+ hours.

P1) From the toe of the buttress, climb a right-facing corner and move left above a huge bush, then head out the left end of a roof to a block belay on a big ledge. There is a rap station here on a tree. 5.8 50M.

P2) Fantastic face climbing past 6 bolts and one or two gear placements up and right to a hanging belay from gear in a right-leaning flake/crack. 5.10 40M.

P3) Pull two overlapping roofs on amazing knobs and pass a bolt on a slab, then cruise up easy featured face to a 2 bolt-belay on a massive horizontal dike. 5.9 40M.

P4) Head up and left past a bolt, then make a long unprotected traverse left to a right facing corner system. Climb the cracks to a bolted belay next to an enormous detached orange block on a ledge. 5.8R 40M.

P5) 3 bolts protect the crux face above the belay, then gain the long right-facing corner system (big cam useful to start). Step left to a gear belay on blocks after the crack peters out. 5.10+ 50M.

P6) Continue up the right-facing corner system above passing an intermediate rap station on a tree. Near the end of the corner, traverse right on a big white dike to a gear belay at the base of a major left-facing corner. 5.8R 50M.

P7) Climb the long left-facing corner/flare past a couple nasty bushes to a large platform. Belay comfortably from gear or awkwardly use the bolted rap station on the face up and left. 5.9 50M.

P8) Scramble up and left towards a short slab and cracks leading to the summit. 5.5 30M.

Descent: 30M rappel from a block near the summit to 2 bolt-anchor at top of P7. 60M rappel from bolts to a tree mid P6. 60M rappel to bolted anchor atop P4. 60M rappel into gully between Super Grey and Cobblers Bench. Scramble and downclimb loose blocks and/or early season snow in the gully to a final 50M rappel from a tree atop P1.

Protection 

2x cams tiny to 3", single 4" and a 5" or 6" piece. 2 x 60M ropes.


Photos of East Buttress - Super Grey Pinnacle Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The team, psyched in a snowstorm on the summit of ...
The team, psyched in a snowstorm on the summit of ...
Rock Climbing Photo: RS stance-banging, P4. Pic:T.Lewis
RS stance-banging, P4. Pic:T.Lewis
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting pitch 2.  Photo: Richard Shore
Starting pitch 2. Photo: Richard Shore
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo
Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Cobblers Bench and Super Grey Pinnacle with ro...
The Cobblers Bench and Super Grey Pinnacle with ro...
Rock Climbing Photo: TL swinging hammer in the crux, P5.
TL swinging hammer in the crux, P5.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony on P4.
Tony on P4.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruising up the lower corner on P6.
Cruising up the lower corner on P6.
Rock Climbing Photo: TL nearing the belay atop P5.
TL nearing the belay atop P5.
Rock Climbing Photo: TL following P2 under sunny skies.
TL following P2 under sunny skies.
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo topo. First 1.5 pitches are out of view.
Photo topo. First 1.5 pitches are out of view.
Rock Climbing Photo: It's hard to see the tower aspect unless your ...
It's hard to see the tower aspect unless your ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Richard at 4th pitch belay after leading sketchy t...
Richard at 4th pitch belay after leading sketchy t...
Rock Climbing Photo: TL coming up the final corner on P7 as the weather...
TL coming up the final corner on P7 as the weather...

Comments on East Buttress - Super Grey Pinnacle Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony Lewis
Apr 25, 2016

Richard's name should be first on the FA line. He lead most of the pitches including the last three when it started to snow. It should be noted that this was done ground up, stance drilled/gear placements with no hooks or gimmicks with no falls or hangs.
By Moser
Apr 26, 2016

I heard Richard mumbling in his sleep, while lying on my floor. .." I hope Tony didn't see me step on the bolt... and I wonder if he new I had a talon hook in my pocket"

See the truth always comes out!
By Moser
Apr 26, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Lewis
Tony Lewis


Tony Lewis chiseling holds on the big project!
By Richard Shore
Apr 26, 2016

LOL! I think someone is upset he couldn't come along..
By Moser
Apr 26, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Super duper
Super duper


While Richard was mumbling on the floor and you where chiseling I snuck out and put up super duper grey 5.15rx paralleling. Ground up!
By Moser
Apr 26, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: The boys on the summit
The boys on the summit

So. This is really how it went down... They just didn't want to say I held the team together

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