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East Bluff 06 - Balanced Rock

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6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall 
6.1 - Box Canyon 
6.2 - Liederkranz 
6.3 - Hole-In-The-Wall 
6.4 - The Effie 

East Bluff 06 - Balanced Rock Rock Climbing 

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Location: 43.4135, -89.7164 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Feb 17, 2002


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The Balanced Rock. Photo: Bob Horan Collection.


The far west end of the East Bluff contains the very popular Balanced Rock Wall, along with the more obscure Balanced Rock Ridge, Liederkranz, Hole-In-The-Wall, The Slab, and The Effie. The area is easily surveyed from the South Shore parking lot. The Balanced Rock Wall contains what many say is the classic climb at the Lake, Watermarks (5.8). Above the Balanced Rock Wall is the Balanced Rock Ridge, a seldom-visited ridge containing a series of short scrambling pitches. To the immediate east of the Balanced Rock Wall are Liederkranz and Hole-In-The-Wall, two smaller areas with interesting climbs. There are also two formations, The Slab and The Effie, at the top of the talus field midway between the Balanced Rock Wall and Devil's Doorway. These rocks contain a handful of shorter climbs.

Getting There 

To get to the East Bluff - Far West End, park at the South Shore parking lot and follow the paved walkway to the railroad tracks. Just past the railroad tracks you will find the junction of two trails. To the left is the Balanced Rock Trail, to the right is the Grottos Trail. To get to the Balanced Rock Wall, Balanced Rock Ridge, Liederkranz and Hole-In-The-Wall turn left and hike up the rock steps of the Balanced Rock Trail. About halfway up the bluff you will encounter the Balanced Rock Wall (can't miss it!). Top-Rope access can be gained by going around the northwest end of the wall. The Liederkranz can be accessed by walking around the east end of the Balanced Rock Wall and up the gully about 100 ft. To get to the Hole-In-The-Wall continue 200 ft east past the Liederkranz and slightly up the bluff. Finally, The Slab and The Effie can be found by taking the Grottos Trail to the right just after passing over the railroad tracks at the bottom of the bluff. Walk east on this scenic trail until you're about halfway between the Balanced Rock Wall and Doorway Rocks. Scramble up to the top of the talus field where you'll find a 35 ft slab (The Slab), with The Effie just above it.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.7 miles from here

46 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',23],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in East Bluff 06 - Balanced Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for East Bluff 06 - Balanced Rock:
New Box   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR, 45'   6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall
Sunken Pillar   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall
Red Pulpit   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR   6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall
Watermarks   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 50'   6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall
Der Glotz   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR   6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall
Watermarks Direct   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR   6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall
Beer and Booty   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall
Morning After   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad   6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall
Moondust    5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall
Law and Gospel   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in East Bluff 06 - Balanced Rock

Featured Route For East Bluff 06 - Balanced Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: The Effie.

Effie 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : ... : 6.4 - The Effie
Named for Effinger Beer once brewed in "The Boo".You will get some true jams, so rare at DL....[more]   Browse More Classics in Wisconsin

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Rock Climbing Photo: A view of the far west end of the East Bluff from ...
BETA PHOTO: A view of the far west end of the East Bluff from ...

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