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East Bluff 01 - Sandstone Area

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1.1 - Old Sandstone 
1.2 New Sandstone Area 

East Bluff 01 - Sandstone Area Rock Climbing 

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Location: 43.41354, -89.68634 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Feb 22, 2002
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The Sandstone Area is an anomoly at Devil's Lake. The rock here is high-quality sandstone with round edges and good friction. The area consists of two main rock formations. The Old Sandstone Area is the western sandstone cliff. It is higher and contains more moderate climbs than its counterpart to the east, the New Sandstone Area. The New Sandstone Area is currently closed to climbing. It is a shorter cliff with hard overhanging climbs.

Getting There 

To find the Sandstone Area drive 1.25 miles east of the CCC parking lot. After driving this distance you will see the backside of a 35 MPH speed limit sign on the left (north) side of the road. Just before this sign there is a dirt pull-off on the right (south) side of the road that accomodates 4 cars. Directly up the bluff, if there were no trees, you would be able to see the Sandstone Area. To access the Old Sandstone Area park at this pull-off and cross the road to find a trail just (about 1 foot) east of the speed limit sign. Hike up this trail to the base of the cliff. To access the New Sandstone Area continue east .4 miles past the speed limit sign to another more obscure pull-off on the left (north) side of the road. Park here and walk west 150 feet and take the imperceptible trail (or just bushwack) up the bluff until you hit sandstone.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.0 miles from here

41 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',21],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in East Bluff 01 - Sandstone Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for East Bluff 01 - Sandstone Area:
Chez's Chimney   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR   1.1 - Old Sandstone
Chez's Chimney variation   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   1.1 - Old Sandstone
Swillbillies   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 45'   1.1 - Old Sandstone
Everleigh Club Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   1.1 - Old Sandstone
Curving Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR   1.1 - Old Sandstone
American Beauty Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR   1.1 - Old Sandstone
Wobbly Dihedral   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   1.1 - Old Sandstone
Out There   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     TR, 1 pitch   1.1 - Old Sandstone
Alligator Wall   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   1.1 - Old Sandstone
Mammalary Magic   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   1.1 - Old Sandstone
Team Arturo   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, TR, 50'   1.1 - Old Sandstone
Dancing Madly Backwards   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   1.1 - Old Sandstone
Gargantua   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR   1.1 - Old Sandstone
Tarantula   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 60'   1.1 - Old Sandstone
Has Been   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'   1.1 - Old Sandstone
Baker Street   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 60'   1.1 - Old Sandstone
Kingsbury Cruise   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   1.2 New Sandstone Area
Pacific Ocean Wall   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     TR   1.1 - Old Sandstone
Uberschmidt   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     TR, 1 pitch, 50'   1.1 - Old Sandstone
Donkey On My Mind   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   1.2 New Sandstone Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in East Bluff 01 - Sandstone Area

Featured Route For East Bluff 01 - Sandstone Area
Rock Climbing Photo: Pacific Ocean Wall

Pacific Ocean Wall 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : ... : 1.1 - Old Sandstone
Pacific Ocean Wall is the large scoop on the right hand side of Old Sandstone--it looks like a crashing wave. Also, it looks like the crux is under the wave or pulling out of it. Wrong. Thin but positive flakes bring you to the lip of the wave. Above the lip, expect sloping handholds and subtle smearing--classic sandstone climbing. A few tough, insecure pulls deposit you at the top of one of the best routes at Devil's Lake....[more]   Browse More Classics in Wisconsin

Photos of East Bluff 01 - Sandstone Area Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Curving Crack
Curving Crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Sandstone area, spring 2011.
Sandstone area, spring 2011.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing Chez Chimney
Climbing Chez Chimney

Comments on East Bluff 01 - Sandstone Area Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 19, 2008
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 26, 2005
the old sandstone area is a great crag,lots of fun climbs and the old farmer use to come down with his shot gun to scare us off. also not a good place to visit during hunting season unless you are wearing red.

the new sandstone area is also excellant but perhaps closed at the time.i feel the routes should be documented for historical as well as to establish a climber presence inthe past for future access.Lazer Beam 5.11b far left thin crack first lead rich bechler1982 solo its been soloed too.Donkey On My Mind aka donkey diehedral 5.12b frst t.r. ralph schimtt first lead Steve Sangdahl,Rich Bechler and Dale Moir 1983 killer splitter corner 3 starsShaking hands with the chimp 5.13a first t.r. Rich Bechler ?30 ft right of donkey lies this gem.Kingsbury Cruise 5.11a first lead ralph schimtt1983 overhanging crack in corner to bulge then straight out roof 3 stars also the arete to left goes at5.12b non alcholic versionWEt Paper Bag 5.10d first lead Steve Sangdahl 1982 thin laybacks to hand crackThin Tips B1 boulder problem right of Wet paper bag.also low level bouldering traverse from thin tips to donkey.
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Apr 2, 2005
under "more conversation" my comments about the new sandstone area and list of routes ,Lazer Beam was led by rich and my self ,we then both soloed it at a later time.i have a great picture of prunes leading it,long hair and freaky outfit, i will post it later as well as other pics of new area climbs
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Apr 21, 2008
I edited this out because it apparently pissed off a lot of people. It was a post about possibly putting up a sign of info about how fragile wet sandstone can be. I was simply trying to help out, but I guess it was a bit misguided.
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Apr 21, 2008
I've climbed at the cliff during almost every month of the year and I have never had a hold break. If the hold you are referring to is the one I'm thinking of at the start of DMB, then I think that hold has been waiting to go for a while now. Other routes (Mammelary, Curving Crack, Tarantula, PO Wall, etc) sure seems solid to me, even when the cliff is a bit damp.

I think it would not be a good idea to put up a sign. The sign would not represent the mindset of the community and one person putting it up would be pretty unilateral. Anyway, I think it's better to be low-key regarding the sandstone areas, and I think a sign might draw some negative park attention.
By SteveSchultz
Apr 21, 2008
I tend to agree with you on this one Jay. As long as people pay attention to conditions, which most do currently, things will be fine. A sign would bring attention to an issue that isn't one to begin with.
By Peter Arndt
Apr 22, 2008
"Sign Sign everywhere a sign.
Blocking out the scenery breaking my mind.
Do this, don't do that, can't you read the sign?"

-Five Man Electrical Band
By Doug Hemken
From: Madison, WI
Apr 22, 2008
Cars in the dirt pull-out are no longer just due to climbers. The new hiking trails in the area make it much harder to tell how many people are up at the Sandstone just by looking at the number of cars.

Are you sure people are climbing on damp sandstone, when the quartzite has been dry and warm for 3-4 weeks now, and pretty uncrowded?

In the 15 years I've been climbing at the Sandstone, I can't say I've noticed any obvious deterioration of any of the routes .... I appreciate your concern, and I'd also like to see the Sandstone last forever as it is, but I can't help feeling that concern based on one unusual experience doesn't really represent what is generally happening up in this area.
By Peter Arndt
Apr 22, 2008

Second: I can appreciate your intent, but I think Sandstone will
be just fine without it.

By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Apr 22, 2008
I'd trust Peter's judgment on classic rock any day. He's an expert in my book.

The rock at sandstone is not like the other sandstone in the state. It seems much more solid. Maybe it's a bit closer to quartzite geologically. I'm not so sure, but I know that holds breaking has not been a problem in the past at Old Sandstone.

I general though, holds sometimes break. I'm sure we all remember the block on False Perspective. It just pulled out one day. As Ron Long says, "A rock's job is to fall down and become dirt."

I don't think any special signs need to be put up.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Apr 22, 2008
Thanks a lot for the responses guys. I really did want to know what everyone thought. And I trust the vets for sure. I had researched sandstone and found some conflicting info. But I do agree that the sandstone at DL is a lot more solid than say... at Governor Dodge.

I will leave it be.
By Ron L Long
From: Out yonder in Wisco.
Apr 25, 2008
I hadn’t had much of a chance to weigh in here earlier, though I did manage to get quoted. I for one appreciate your good (if misguided) intentions with the sign. As has been stated, unilaterally posting a sign would be a bad idea, bad for more reasons than I care to get in to here.

I have personally been climbing at Sandstone when holds have broken, twice that I can recall, both times they were crisp-dry fall afternoons. Then again I was there when the block pulled out on False Perspective (oh yea I did it), and that is of course quartzite. Maybe I am a one man geologic event. Bottom line is, holds do break. Erosion is a simple fact of geology no matter what the rock type is, and not matter the season.

Thank you John for posting your thoughts/question; thank you as well for posting that you have decided to not follow through.
By Peter Arndt
Apr 25, 2008
Ron, you are the next ICE AGE!!
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
May 19, 2008
Your welcome Ron. And thank you for appreciating my misguided efforts.

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