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East Bluff 05 - Potholes Area

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Devils Doorway 
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East Bluff 05 - Potholes Area Rock Climbing 


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Location: 43.414, -89.71984 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Feb 22, 2002
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Wild rose in the woods

Description 

The Potholes Area is made up of three areas: Ramsay's Pinnacle, Doorway Rocks (including Devil's Doorway, Major Mass, and Minor Mass), and Red Rocks. Doorway Rocks is one of the largest formations on the bluffs surrounding Devil's Lake, but in spite of this it isn't as popular as other formations at the park.

The well known Devil's Doorway sits atop Doorway Rocks and attracts many day hikers, though this shouldn't be of concern to climbers since the Doorway's immediate vicinity contains only a few of the climbs found at this group of rocks.

There are two smaller areas on either side of the Doorway Rocks that are worth a visit. To the west sits Ramsay's Pinnacle, a grouping of shorter climbs easily accessed from the Devil's Doorway Trail. To the east you'll find Red Rocks, a collection of rocks that straddle the Potholes Trail.

Getting There 

To get to the rocks in the Potholes Area, park at the South Shore parking lot and follow the paved trail north over the railroad tracks to the junction of the Grottos Trail and the Balanced Rock Trail.

At this junction, take a right and walk along the Grotto's Trail at the bottom of the bluff. After about 10 minutes of easy walking, turn left on the Potholes Trail, and head up the bluff on the rock steps. The Potholes Trail winds its way up through the talus slope to the top of the bluff, meeting the Devil's Doorway Trail near the top.

Just before the top of the Potholes Trail, you will find it hard to miss the Red Rocks. The trail squeezes through a two foot wide fissure that separates two 20 foot tall blocks. This is Red Rocks.

To access Minor Mass, cut across the talus field to the left before passing through the Red Rocks formation.

Continue around the bottom of the cliff to Major Mass or follow the Potholes Trail to the top and turn left on the Devil's Doorway Trail to access the upper level of Major Mass.

To reach Ramsay's Pinnacle, follow the Devil's Doorway Trail past the Doorway Rocks. Ramsay's Pinnacle is about 150 west of the Doorway Rocks.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.6 miles from here

115 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',34],['2 Stars',62],['1 Star',15],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',54],['5.7',22],['5.8',14],['5.9',7],['5.10',9],['5.11',2],['5.12',7],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in East Bluff 05 - Potholes Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for East Bluff 05 - Potholes Area:
Doorway Chimney   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R     Trad, TR   Devils Doorway
Jungle Gym   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G...
Kenosis   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR   Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Lower Major Mass
Stettner's Overhang   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 40'   Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Hammer Wall & The Keyhole
Cedar Tree Wall   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR   Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G...
Angel's Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR   Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G...
Bloody Finger   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 25'   Devils Doorway
Pigeon Roof   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR   Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass
Dippy Diagonal   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR   Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Lower Major Mass
Archway Cookie   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR   Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Lower Major Mass
Jolly Roger   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR   Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G...
Impossible Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Devils Doorway
Hammer Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR   Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Hammer Wall & The Keyhole
Manhandler   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass
LadyFingers   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR   Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass
Rainman   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, TR   Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass
Mr Wizard and Tutor Turtle   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 65'   Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass
Hammer Master   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, TR, 50'   Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Hammer Wall & The Keyhole
Hammer Case   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch   Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Hammer Wall & The Keyhole
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in East Bluff 05 - Potholes Area

Featured Route For East Bluff 05 - Potholes Area
Rock Climbing Photo: Shot from the bottom. The over hang looks very int...

No Stranger to the Fist 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : ... : Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass
This route is located on the east face of the Minor Mass of the Doorway Rocks, to the left (south) of the large oak tree. The route is about 80 feet long. To climb the route start out by making your way up to the "Saddle" using easy ledges. Once on the saddle climb the face directly below the roof using small, balancey face holds. At the top of the face surmount the four-foot roof and continue up to the top with easy moves....[more]   Browse More Classics in Wisconsin

Photos of East Bluff 05 - Potholes Area Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Devil's Doorway "summit"
Devil's Doorway "summit"
Rock Climbing Photo: Autumn light
Autumn light

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