East Bluff 06 - Balanced Rock Rock Climbing
The Balanced Rock. Photo: Bob Horan Collection.
The far west end of the East Bluff contains the very popular Balanced Rock Wall, along with the more obscure Balanced Rock Ridge, Liederkranz, Hole-In-The-Wall, The Slab, and The Effie. The area is easily surveyed from the South Shore parking lot. The Balanced Rock Wall contains what many say is the classic climb at the Lake, Watermarks (5.8). Above the Balanced Rock Wall is the Balanced Rock Ridge, a seldom-visited ridge containing a series of short scrambling pitches. To the immediate east of the Balanced Rock Wall are Liederkranz and Hole-In-The-Wall, two smaller areas with interesting climbs. There are also two formations, The Slab and The Effie, at the top of the talus field midway between the Balanced Rock Wall and Devil's Doorway. These rocks contain a handful of shorter climbs.
To get to the East Bluff - Far West End, park at the South Shore parking lot and follow the paved walkway to the railroad tracks. Just past the railroad tracks you will find the junction of two trails. To the left is the Balanced Rock Trail, to the right is the Grottos Trail. To get to the Balanced Rock Wall, Balanced Rock Ridge, Liederkranz and Hole-In-The-Wall turn left and hike up the rock steps of the Balanced Rock Trail. About halfway up the bluff you will encounter the Balanced Rock Wall (can't miss it!). Top-Rope access can be gained by going around the northwest end of the wall. The Liederkranz can be accessed by walking around the east end of the Balanced Rock Wall and up the gully about 100 ft. To get to the Hole-In-The-Wall continue 200 ft east past the Liederkranz and slightly up the bluff. Finally, The Slab and The Effie can be found by taking the Grottos Trail to the right just after passing over the railroad tracks at the bottom of the bluff. Walk east on this scenic trail until you're about halfway between the Balanced Rock Wall and Doorway Rocks. Scramble up to the top of the talus field where you'll find a 35 ft slab (The Slab), with The Effie just above it.
Weather station 3.7 miles from here
46 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',23],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in East Bluff 06 - Balanced Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in East Bluff 06 - Balanced Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for East Bluff 06 - Balanced Rock:
Featured Route For East Bluff 06 - Balanced Rock
Der Glotz 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Wisconsin
: Devil's Lake
: ... : 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall
Der Glotz is a great route situated between Watermarks and Sunken Pillar. It follows a right-trending diagonal ledge up to some tough moves up along the left side of the zig-zag overhangs of Watermarks Left Side. To climb get up onto the diagonal ledge (ledge is about 2" wide) and use careful hands to work right until ledge runs out. At the top of the ledge reach up to a rectangular pocket. Pull up on this pocket and move your feet up so you can get your feet up into this pocket. From here ...[more] Browse More Classics in Wisconsin
BETA PHOTO: A view of the far west end of the East Bluff from ...
Aug 16, 2005
I solo-climbed down Devils Doorway; it was insane but I lived to talk about it (don't recommend ever doing that again without safety ropes and harness.) The experience was breathtaking. I will be buying all the right equipment and will be doing that again.
By scott isaacman
From: Silver Bay, MN
Dec 25, 2006
This fall, someone fell to their death in this area (no gear). Perhaps an argument can be made for natural selection; however, there is a risk the DNR will decide climbing is too hazardous to allow in the park. Be safe. Climb safe. Always.
Apr 6, 2011
I added "Prong Wall" to this area (in the book but not named) and therefore defined the boarder of the Far West End as the gully to Ramsay's Pinnacle.