REI Community
Split Pinnacle
Select Route:
East Arete T 

East Arete 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chuck Pratt and Krehe Ritter
Page Views: 416
Submitted By: Blitzo on May 12, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Split Pinnacle. Photo by Blitzo.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This fun climb Starts in a chimney on the east side of the spire.

Climb cracks into the chimney (5.8), chimney up to a belay at it's end.

Climb 5.7 crystals and a 5.8 corner for a pitch.

Move down and left (5.4)to a belay below a curving crack.

Follow this (5.8) to the little notch below the tip. Either climb a 5.10c lieback, or A1 crack to the summit.

Originally submitted by Blitzo, Oct 22, 2006. Converted to a route posthumously at Mike Dahlquist's suggestion, thanks.

Location 

Refer to Eagle Creek approach description.

To descend, rappel to the notch and walk down the north side.

Protection 

Yosemite trad rack.


Comments on East Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rodger Raubach
Sep 14, 2015

The recent passing of Paul Kunasz in Boulder reminded me of a 1965 joint effort we made on this route. It was highly regarded at the time, but few climbers had actually done the route. It was my first experience in a Yosemite "Bombay chimney," and I struggled a lot on the first pitch; so much so that it was the first and only climb that made me barf. Heat, lack of water, and my queasy stomach called for a retreat--which we did. The first pitch may not be very severe by today's Yosemite standards--5.8--but having very slippery rock shoes didn't help: Kletter Spiders. In a sticky rubber shoe, this would be an excellent adventure! The approach is a bit of a grunt, especially in hot weather.
By Keith Neas
From: Yosemite, CA
Mar 19, 2017

Great advebture climb! Thought first pitch was fun, last 10c layback pitch was hard!! The rappel stations seemed sketch but werent too bad, lots of old webbing strung on blocks and trees. The approach was a bit of a grovel. The 5.8 after the traverse was pretty sweet too. Great summit!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About