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East Arete - Mt. Carl Heller T 
Tulainyo Tower T 

East Arete - Mt. Carl Heller 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1000', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a [details]
FA: Cark Gekker abd Al Green (august 1966)
Season: Year Round
Page Views: 2,167
Submitted By: Viren Perumal on Aug 10, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Chris Orozco enjoying the knife-edge exposure on C...

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  • Description 

    The East Arete is Classic - one of the best routes of its grade and type in the range....downright enjoyable!!!

    Rock Climbing Photo: Ridge Scrambling on Mt. Carl Heller
    Ridge Scrambling on Mt. Carl Heller

    I think it shares the quality and style of east ridge of Russel and the east ridge of muir...just with really low chances of running into anyone else.

    Climb the East Ridge on enjoyable rock to the summit...staying left of the gully at the very top.

    Fiddler Pg 94
    Secor Pg 83

    Rock Climbing Photo: sunrise on Carl Heller
    sunrise on Carl Heller

    There is more info that can be found on climbing this route with a great trip report from a winter ascent here:

    and another description here:


    You can descend down the southwest slopes or down climb the route which is a nice option if you are staying in the drainage.

    Rock Climbing Photo: Jediah Porter Descending the East Arete
    Jediah Porter Descending the East Arete


    Scramble the route or carry a light alpine rack and a very short rope (15M should be adequate for any short steep steps.

    Photos of East Arete - Mt. Carl Heller Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Profile of the East Arete from north of Vacation P...
    BETA PHOTO: Profile of the East Arete from north of Vacation P...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Orozco on the summit headwall of Mt Carl Hel...
    Chris Orozco on the summit headwall of Mt Carl Hel...

    Comments on East Arete - Mt. Carl Heller Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By PumpkinEater
    From: Sacramento
    Oct 3, 2014
    rating: 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b

    Above average climbing on an awesome feature in a remote drainage. Not a soul in sight. Very narrow in places where, if you've got the mind for it, you can "walk the plank"! A few moves were certainly 4th class.
    By Richard Shore
    Sep 3, 2015
    rating: 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b

    The BEST 3rd/4th class route I've done in these mountains, hands down. Spectacular position and a natural line directly on the knife-edge ridge. Miles better than Russell, Muir, Middle Pal, etc.
    By Chris Owen
    From: Big Bear Lake
    Jan 13, 2016

    Great post, the links have a lot of information - let's hope they stay active.
    By BKH Hastings
    Jul 5, 2016
    rating: 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b PG13

    Climbed the East Arete this past weekend with my wife (approach via George Creek). Both of us consider ourselves moderate climbers with 35 years of combined experience. While we felt the overall experience was like none other (given the approach, solitude, terrain), we also believe that no one should take this adventure lightly. I strongly suggest that this route be classified as Class 4 with some 5th class climbing (5.2-5.4), maybe as the result of recent rock fall. Descending the route or the west side also involves at least 1 full-length rappel. If camped on the east side and descending the west side, return travel involves descending all the way to Wallace Lake and back up and over Vacation Pass--a definite long day out. I wanted to provide this description to give the novice climber fair warning before they considered this objective without a rope and light rack. Be safe and enjoy.

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