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Morning Glory Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Book of Dissent T 
Brown Flake T 
Chimney T 
Crack of Doom T 
Easiest Route T 
Fall Line S 
Morning Glory S 
Power Tools S 
Reach for the Sky T,S 
Siesta S 
Skyline T 
Strategic Defense T 
Veal Cage S 

Easiest Route 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 749
Submitted By: K Baumgartner on Jun 27, 2013

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Elliot on the Summit Scramble.


There are two starts to this route. Either begin as for Crack of Dung but veer right around the corner OR start 15 feet down to the right and climb the water gulley with no pro. The latter has the advantage of reducing rope drag.

Head up to the chimney to the fixed tat. Continue up to a ledge and veer right of the left facing crack (probably 5.7-5.8). You'll meet a wall to the left with a large block on top. It's probably 5.7 if you go straight up or you can keep it 5.5 by going around back of this block the right. Build an anchor.

Scramble up and left to the anchors on top of Skyline.

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By Luke Loeffler
Jun 4, 2017

Awkward to climb roped, dirty, and covered in lichen. Climb into the "tunnel" and go eastward, up the ramp straddling the crack, then slot the rope back thru the notch to avoid drag. Marginal anchor on slung boulders. Or just solo it.

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