|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 300'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]|
|FA:||Dennis & David Davis|
|Season:||Fall, Winter, Spring|
|Submitted By:||Stan Jones on Mar 12, 2009|
|Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Easier Than It Looks||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Matt Richardson
From: Longmont, CO
May 4, 2009
A long time ago, I had a really noob experience on this route. We were planning on only doing the first pitch, so one person was going to go up and top belay. My friend decided to take the first lead and be the one to haul everyone's ass up afterwards. He had no experience on longer routes and hadn't ever top belayed before. I tried to impress on him how important it was to maintain control of the rope, but it didn't quite sink in.
Problems set in when he got to the top and only had two quickdraws to belay from turning a somewhat comfortable belay on a small ledge into an uncomfortable hanging belay. He then proceeded to thread the rope through his Gri-gri that he was going to use to belay. Not realizing that the Gri-gri operated by cinching on a dynamic force, he let the rope go. The rope then rapidly slid from the device leaving him hanging from only two quick draws in an incredibly uncomfortable situation.
As I watched the rope slither back down, I about fell to the ground laughing. I gave him a little bit of time to think about why this situation went so wrong before taking off to retrieve him. Needless to say, when I reached him he was quite uncomfortable. I don't think he has climbed since that time.
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Sep 14, 2009
By Zach Wahrer
From: Bozeman, MT
Nov 6, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
|We were able to rap from the P1 anchors to the start boulder with just one 60m rope, barely.|
By Stan Jones
From: Benbrook, TX
Jan 26, 2014
|The route description states that it is 140 feet from the P1 anchors to the ground, so it should not be a surprise that you can't do it with a single 60m rope. Someone commented that they were barely able to reach the ledge to the SIDE of the route near where it starts with a 60m, but that was probably with a lot of stretch. Rapping with gravity does not take you back to the start. Take two ropes for a standard rap to the ground, and by the way that will work from the P2 anchors as it says in the route description.|
Apr 11, 2016
Had a group of noobies on 4/8/2016. The routes were dry, thankfully, with great weather.
Most did the route top rope from P1.
Good practice trusting your feet (and your shoes).
Long rap from P1. The following link is a good technique for a long rap with a short rope.