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Earth Juice 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Kurt Reider, Chris Robbins, Augie KIein
Season: Spring, Fall
Page Views: 203
Submitted By: Cha Tate on Apr 21, 2017

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Jerry Handren's Guidebook describes this route as "Thin face climbing with some scary run outs." I'm inclined to agree. Nevertheless, when I first led this route one year ago I was addicted and made the decision then to replace the old star drives and rusted Leeper hangers placed in 1979 with new 1/2 inch expansion bolts (Two newer 3/8inch bolts remain part of the route). Out of respect for the first ascensionists no additional bolts were added, but the anchor is moved higher up the route to what would seem a more logical stance at 95 feet (which also allows a midway anchor for a single 60m rope rap of Kisses Don't Lie). It does appear that sometime between 1979 and present a bolt was added at the bottom of the route. The guidebook clocks this at 10d!, but the second pitch traverse left to finish on KDL is easily 11c and is an impressive onsite.

To the beta! Climb up the ramp right of Kisses Don't Lie.

P1 (95', 5.10d R) The crux of the first pitch is the smooth friction climbing past the first two bolts. Some might consider clipping the first bolt given the precarious start. Continue up a series of easier crimps with widely spaced bolts to a small crack then move up and left in shallow corner to the new camouflaged chain anchors (5 bolts).

P2 (45', 5.11c PG13) The second pitch is heady with runout but the crux is protected by a new bolt on the traverse. There is gear before the bolt at the crux. From the anchor traverse out right around the rib then make easier moves working up and back left of the rib into the corner (5.8). After clipping the bolt down climb and then traverse left using the short crack and some very tenuous footwork in small dishes (crux). After a sigh of relief finish on the last 15 feet (5.9) of Kisses Don't Lie to the anchor.

The pitches can be combined into one awesome 140' pitch (bring a long sling) but isn't as awesome as its neighbor to the left. On the second pitch beware the stacked rock in the corner right of the traverse bolt as it is loose and off route.

Location 

Rap the route with one 60M rope to the midway anchor, then rap to the ground.

Protection 

9-10 quick draws, 2-3 slings, cams to 1.5", several medium to large nuts (DMM offset in the mid to large size work well for the second pitch).


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By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Apr 22, 2017
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

This route is really good! First pitch feels a little bold but on easier and positive holds. The hard stuff is perfectly protected with new stainless bolts.
The second pitch is a pretty wild ride. The rightward traverse off the anchor is pretty cool but not hard. The upper traverse felt hard and I fell a few times trying to figure out the moves back left to join into the top of Kisses Don't Lie. Really cool body tension and you just have to trust those feet! You can fall all you want though because you're basically on top rope from the high bolt as you do the hard moves. Or you could just do a little pendulum over to KDL if you can't do the move for a great 10d A0 pitch.
Great route and really worth the re-bolting efforts!

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