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Earth First (We'll Log the Other Planets Later) 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 291
Submitted By: dmPete on Oct 27, 2014

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The climb ascends the shaded face.

Description 

Right off the deck you'll realize this is another of Area 51's stiff 11's. The opening moves on overhanging blocks with bad feet and a gutsy first clipping stance give way to precise face climbing on small pocketed holds.

3/4 of the way up the route you'll be faced with a big crystally bulge to surmount. The bulge has a great feature larger than your head (that must weigh at least 50 lbs) that provides jugs for both hands. The moves up and around this overhanging bulge section are the crux...

...but wait, this feature is glued on, with a visible bead of liquid nails (?) about an inch thick all the way around it...and when you yard on it to reach the next holds, it flexes quite a bit.

Location 

Near the end of the approach trail, after coming out of the shaded area where "Shape Shifter" and "Luna" are located, there's a rock outcropping. The bolt line goes up the left-facing section of this formation.

Protection 

Quickdraws. Bolted anchor.


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By dmPete
Oct 27, 2014

THIS ROUTE IS DANGEROUS DUE TO A LARGE, CRUCIAL HOLD HAVING BEEN GLUED ON AT THE TOP. IT FLEXES WHEN USED, AND YOU HAVE TO REALLY USE IT TO MAKE THE MOVE!!!

If 11a is your grade, climb a different route...Area 51 has plenty that are better than this. Try Mothership, you'll be happier.

If you have to climb this one, warn your belayer ahead of time, and make sure he/she is wearing a helmet and is ready to duck under the overhang in the event of that jug popping loose.

Consider stick-clipping the first bolt, too. The moves off the deck will be a push for an 11a climber.
By Marielle Breneman
From: Portland, OR
Jun 29, 2015

Big hold in crux is loose. If you really lunge for it, could probably blow.

Our group tried to mark it with a chalk X but the marking isn't super noticeable.

We did however find a way to still send the route.

If you traverse over to the right, you can go onto the other side of the bulge and use the crack there. Will still get you to anchors.

As long as you go to the right and do not try to use the loose hold, this climb is ok. Still not great.

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