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West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base
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Earnest Stemmingway T 
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Earnest Stemmingway 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Pat Ament & Mark Sheppard, 1980
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Bolt [details]
Page Views: 657
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jul 7, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: You can see the crux dihedral in the sun (and mayb...

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My partner wanted to climb this because of the name -- we both were hoping for something along the lines of Over the Hill. Boy were we wrong. Not only is this climb a pile of chossy rock with few fun moves, but the approach is tedious & tricky to find. Get there by going to the end of the Streamside Trail -- where the West Ridge rock runs right into the creek (as far south as you can get). If approaching from the other side, scramble over this southern buttress above the water. You'll see two ramp systems (and lots of things that look like ramps) -- take the most obvious one that is furthest east. This is marked by a model-looking Christmas tree.

Climb up ramp 50 feet or so until another twisted tree blocks your way up the ramp. Go around this tree and begin looking for a hard-to-see bolt on a shallow, left-facing dihedral about 20 feet over your head. Climb up here (or just go home -- the climbing is bad). The hard moves are 10 feet above the bolt and well protected. Pull over the top onto a ramp and scramble all the way up this ramp to set up a belay.

Rap off on the far west side of the West Ridge or perhaps go back down the ramp.


A few small & medium cams + one quickdraw for the newly replaced bolt.

Photos of Earnest Stemmingway Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: About to clip the bolt. Photo: Mark Roth.
About to clip the bolt. Photo: Mark Roth.
Rock Climbing Photo: Just past the crux. Photo: Mark Roth.
Just past the crux. Photo: Mark Roth.
Rock Climbing Photo: This is a helpful (?) shot of all three trees refe...
This is a helpful (?) shot of all three trees refe...

Comments on Earnest Stemmingway Add Comment
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 21, 2002
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I didn't think it was that bad. The moves were nice, a lot of technique without a lot of physical difficulty. Yes, there is some broken rock and some lichen. The route is mostly solid- it just needs brushed off well once or twice. Some other thoughts... I don't know for sure if this route deserves and S or not. The crux is right by a bolt, and there is a #4 or #5 stopper below the bolt, but I am pretty sure the stopper would break the tiny flake it is behind and I know the bolt is a 20+ year-old button-head looking thing. I clipped it, but if you fall from the crux and the bolt pops you are going to the hospital. I'd give the route 1 star, but that's 1/3 [stars], not the 1/1 star it got in a local guide. It's not top 20%, but not a total bomb either.

Needs a little brushing off. Tricky, but not physical.
By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Oct 17, 2004
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

For those faint of heart...or just reasonable, you can sling a small(er) tree just left and before the roof. Just extend the heck out of it. I used a dbl-length sling girth-hitched to a shoulder-lengthed one. Drag was not an issue.The crux was indeed at a 'bolt' of quite questionable quality.

If you do it, check out "Ernest Extended Way" while you're there.

I honestly didn't have too much fun on this one, and think it's not worth the effort of the approach. If you're still into it, though, check out the pics below to assist in the location.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jun 4, 2005

It's been a number of years, but this route is in the zone of 'one must not fall at the crux!' There are so many better routes.... Only for the absolutely bored out of their skulls.
By slevin
May 26, 2006

The bolt has been replaced. The original stud was a 1" split shaft quarter incher that came out with hardly any effort.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Dec 2, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Not the best route, but it has some fun moves and it is reasonably safe now with the new bolt. We downclimbed the slab to the north east, but I recommend rapping to avoid some of the loose blocks in the gully below.

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