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Keeney's Buttress
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Earn Your Dinner T 
Meat Puppets T 

Earn Your Dinner 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Kirk Bjorling, Matt Childers
Page Views: 26
Submitted By: camhead on Mar 18, 2014

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Description 

Really fun, variety-filled trad climb, and one of the few at Keeney's Buttress that stays dry in light rain or seepage. It is definitely solid at the grade.

It starts with a straight-in splitter that will take some not-so-straight-in technique to get up. After about 35 feet of splitter, you wind up beneath a scoop and a roof. Place some gear, the heelhook and drop-knee your way out the roof. Even after you get established over the roof it's not over until you get to a no-hands stance beneath a large flake. A few more easy moves put you to the anchors on a blank slab, about 20 feet below the cliff top.

This line could go all the way to the top, but the hard slab moves above the anchors are uncharacteristic for the rest of the climb, and over pretty quickly.

Location 

Maybe the third or fourth route that you'll pass as you walk into Keeney's from the upstream rockslide approach. Look for the obvious splitter start, and bolted anchors hidden over the top of a ledge.

Protection 

Hands and fingers gear. Be prepared for some blind placements in the roof. Bolted anchors at the top of the cliff; this is one of the only trad route at Keeney's with fixed anchors, woohoo!


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