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North Early Winter Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chockstone Route T 
Early Winter Couloir T 
Labor Pains T 
Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Boving-Pollack Route) T 
West Face, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Early Winter Couloir 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b AI2-3 M4+ A1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 6 pitches, 1100', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b AI2-3 M4+ A1 [details]
FA: Gary Brill and Lowell Skoog - 5/6/78
Page Views: 1,002
Submitted By: Jeff Hebert on Apr 7, 2015

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Aiding over the cornice

Description 

The aesthetic and obvious couloir splitting North and South Early Winters Spires is in shape for a few weeks immediately after the pass opens each spring during April and early May. The route passes three large chockstones, surmounts a cornice, and then ascends rock to the summit of North Early Winters Spire.
P1 - climb AI2 past the first large chockstone and continue up 45-55 degree snow to a good rock anchor on the left
P2 - ascend 40-degree snow to below the crux chockstone
P3 - drytool past the chockstone with a #3 cam and ascend 45-65 degree snow to a cave below the last chockstone
P4 - climb past the last chockstone and up to the cornice
P5 - choose your own adventure past the cornice (aid on the left, tunnel through, or slabby rock to the right)
P6 - ascend snow over rock to a corner system left of an overhanging roof to the summit plateau

Location 

The gully between North and South Early Winters Spire, straight up from the hairpin turn on the East side of the formation

Protection 

3-5 pins, set of nuts, cams .4-3"
Optional pickets and ice screws


Photos of Early Winter Couloir Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The entrance pitch
The entrance pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down just after climbing past the crux cho...
Looking down just after climbing past the crux cho...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Early Winter Couloir from the hairpin
BETA PHOTO: The Early Winter Couloir from the hairpin

Comments on Early Winter Couloir Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nick Sweeney
From: Spokane, WA
May 7, 2015

Anyone have beta for overcoming the cornice? Most parties seem to bypass to the left on aid. Just wondering if anyone has had success burrowing through.
By Jeff Hebert
From: Seattle, WA
May 8, 2015

Colin Haley et al tunneled through in 2008:
colinhaley.blogspot.com/2008/0...

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