Routes on the left side of Early Wall Photo court...
Early Wall is the broad wall on the left side of the canyon. This area sees sun early in the a.m., and shade the rest of the day.
Climbs are in three sections of the cliff:
- The easiest approach is by the Runway/Grotto approach trail. This trail starts in the arroyo straight across from the trail to the Winter Wall.
- Climbs at the "Left End" (east) are also easily reached by a faint trail with cairns, along the left end of the talus.
Weather station 6.8 miles from here
37 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',23],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Early Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Early Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Early Wall:
Featured Route For Early Wall
Humbolt 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a New Mexico
: Santa Fe Area
: ... : Left End
The best warm-up on the Early Wall, and one of the best routes at the grade at Diablo (that's not on the Winter Wall, anyway). Its name hints at the first three bolt placements near the crack, without which it would see much less traffic. Start on a big block and climb a finger crack followed by a mantle, then crimping and edging on the thin face left of the arete on small edges to the anchor. This climb is thinner but not as steep as most at Diablo. Fun, high quality climbing....[more] Browse More Classics in New Mexico
By Karl Kiser
Apr 1, 2008
For the record, a number of the cracks on Early Wall (both of the extreme left side and near Up to Bat) were done by a combination of Tom Wezwick, Mark Thomas, Chris Kessler, Alex Sfakianos and Karl Kiser. Rick Bradshaw et. al. may have done these at about the same time but we spent a lot of time cleaning. Rick isn't the only one to have worked on a route and then found it bolted.
By Jason Young
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 1, 2012
The new trail is GREAT! Whoever put in all that work, THANKS!!! I think this trail works just fine for access to the Grotto also.