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Early Wall

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Left End 
Observatory Wall (Upper Tier) 
Runway (Lower Tier) 

Early Wall Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.80501, -106.14174 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,295
Administrators: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aaron Miller on Sep 28, 2009  with updates from George Perkins
Forecast:
Tonight

22°
Sunday

45° | 26°
Monday

52° | 34°
Tuesday

45° | 21°
Wednesday

45° | 22°
Thursday

51° | 26°
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Routes on the left side of Early Wall Photo court...

Description 

Early Wall is the broad wall on the left side of the canyon. This area sees sun early in the a.m., and shade the rest of the day.

Climbs are in three sections of the cliff:

Getting There 

  • The easiest approach is by the Runway/Grotto approach trail. This trail starts in the arroyo straight across from the trail to the Winter Wall.
  • Climbs at the "Left End" (east) are also easily reached by a faint trail with cairns, along the left end of the talus.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.8 miles from here

37 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',23],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',8],['5.11',19],['5.12',7],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Early Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Early Wall:
Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Runway (Lower Tier)
Humbolt   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Left End
Learning to Fly   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Runway (Lower Tier)
Top Gun   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   Runway (Lower Tier)
Mocos Locos   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Runway (Lower Tier)
Airbus   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Observatory Wall (Upper Tie...
Aviatrix   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Runway (Lower Tier)
Lichening The Serpent   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Observatory Wall (Upper Tie...
Aerostar   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Runway (Lower Tier)
Holding Pattern   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Runway (Lower Tier)
Turbulence   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Runway (Lower Tier)
Flight Simulator   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Runway (Lower Tier)
Schmeming   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Left End
The Right Stuff   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Runway (Lower Tier)
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Early Wall

Featured Route For Early Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Tina Sommer styling Humbolt

Humbolt 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : ... : Left End
The best warm-up on the Early Wall, and one of the best routes at the grade at Diablo (that's not on the Winter Wall, anyway). Its name hints at the first three bolt placements near the crack, without which it would see much less traffic. Start on a big block and climb a finger crack followed by a mantle, then crimping and edging on the thin face left of the arete on small edges to the anchor. This climb is thinner but not as steep as most at Diablo. Fun, high quality climbing....[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

Comments on Early Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Karl Kiser
Apr 1, 2008
For the record, a number of the cracks on Early Wall (both of the extreme left side and near Up to Bat) were done by a combination of Tom Wezwick, Mark Thomas, Chris Kessler, Alex Sfakianos and Karl Kiser. Rick Bradshaw et. al. may have done these at about the same time but we spent a lot of time cleaning. Rick isn't the only one to have worked on a route and then found it bolted.
By Jason Young
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 1, 2012
The new trail is GREAT! Whoever put in all that work, THANKS!!! I think this trail works just fine for access to the Grotto also.

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