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Left End

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aileron Roll S 
Airway Arete S 
Diablo Cruiser, The T 
Early Arete S 
Humbolt S 
Rock n Road T 
Rope Burn in Hell S 
Schmeming S 
Two Wheel Drive S 
Up To Bat T 

Left End Rock Climbing 

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Submitted By: Aaron Miller on Sep 28, 2009


74° | 51°
Memorial Day

75° | 51°

77° | 52°

76° | 52°

76° | 54°
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The pronounced crux moves are right here above the...


The upper left side of Early Wall has about 10 climbs, including both sport climbs and cracks. This area is sunny at first in the morning, but goes into the shade for the rest of the day. There is seldom more than one party climbing up here. The cliff disintegrates into a discontinuous chossy section not far to the right of 2-Wheel Drive.

If you top out any of these climbs, scramble off the left (east) end of the cliff easily. One could also scramble up to the clifftop easily to set topropes, although some of the 2-bolt anchors may be a little bit too low to reach from above.

Getting There 

A faint trail follows cairns up the left side of the large talus slope, passing some nice rock art along the way. It's a steep hike up, but doesn't take more than 10 or 15 minutes.
Alternatively, a decent trail allows one to get here by traversing along the base of Early Wall from the Grotto.

Climbs (Left to Right) 

See also the original online guide by R.Bradshaw.

About 10 climbs are at the upper left end of Early Wall. A direct approach to this section of cliff can be had by finding the faint trail up from the wash, along the left edge of the boulder-covered slope.
Rope Burn in Hell 5.12b
Airway Arete 5.11c
abandoned project unworthy of being bolted ? (anchors, but no bolts, so far)
Schmeming 5.12a/b
Rock n Road 5.11 (trad, no anchor)
Early Arete 5.11d
Up To Bat 5.9 (trad, no anchor)
Humbolt 5.10a
Two Wheel Drive 5.10d
The Diablo Cruiser 5.7 (trad, no anchor)

Climbing Season

For the Early Wall area.

Weather station 6.8 miles from here

10 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Left End

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Left End:
Humbolt   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Schmeming   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Left End

Featured Route For Left End
Rock Climbing Photo: Early Arete is #6.

Early Arete 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : ... : Left End
A great face and arete. Tricky start with thin feet and big moves. Pass this to a tricky and hard to read move off a ledge to some thin face. A hard move and tricky clip guards the anchors. Good rests save the day between the cruxes....[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

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