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Early Times 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Rich Bechler, Schlick, Stetzer
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 3,014
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Sep 10, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (59)
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Aaron Stetzer reminiscing on... You can see part ...


A surprisingly good line originally lead on gear, and a bit wandery. The retro bolted version takes on the plumb line. The route offers quality moves on good stone, and is also a good warm up for the harder lines nearby.

Some hard moves off the deck take you to some jugs and past the first two bolts. The third bolt is a horizontally reachy clip (hollow rock closer in...). Some crimps, a finger lock, and a good side pull take you up to some jugs and a mantley finish.


Far left side of the Y wall.


Four bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Photos of Early Times Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: If you're shorter this deadpoint move could be tou...
If you're shorter this deadpoint move could be tou...
Rock Climbing Photo: Necedah stone. Andy on Early Times.
Necedah stone. Andy on Early Times.
Rock Climbing Photo: bolt no.3?
bolt no.3?
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy Hansen on Early Times
Andy Hansen on Early Times
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up from the bottom.
Looking up from the bottom.
Rock Climbing Photo: Late afternoon on early times.
Late afternoon on early times.
Rock Climbing Photo: My first lead climb! Oh and did I take a good whip...
BETA PHOTO: My first lead climb! Oh and did I take a good whip...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jd clipping bolts on early times.
Jd clipping bolts on early times.

Comments on Early Times Add Comment
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By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Oct 6, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Great route! Short with very technical climbing. The sequence through this climb is superb. I took a nice whipper while trying to clip in the crux. I will get back to it soon and finish her clean.
By Tradiban
Apr 19, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Harder than it looks and technical. Will test your on sight ability.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 13, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Hard to onsight for sure but these moves are incredible. Awesome climb.
By Miranda Q
Nov 19, 2010

This was my first 5.11 on lead. Awesome route! It's so rewarding getting past the hard boulder problem off the ground...I grunted my way through it :)
By nathankutcher
May 15, 2011

FYI, I saw a guy lead this on gear in the mid to late 90's. I wanna say he thought it had been climbed before him. Its probably a lot more palatable with bolts and he may have stayed more left after the pine tree. It's one of the few routes there I haven't been on.
By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Apr 5, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Would be 4 stars if the third bolt was a touch left. Really fun movement anyway.
By Adam J. Clark
From: Mill Creek, WA
May 1, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Loose nut on the second bolt, didn't exactly have wrenches on me at the time, so climber beware. However, great route, really didn't expect to enjoy it so much.
By Joel Allen
From: La Crosse, WI
Jan 30, 2015
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

This route is really short but it is a lot of fun! Feels like a boulder problem. And if you find the right position, the third bolt is easily clipped, I think it's fine where it is. Everyone should try this at least once!

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