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Early May: Best Climbing Lower 48
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Jan 10, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: tahquitz!
In early May, where can I find the best climbing in the lower 48?

Constraints:
1. 3-4 day trip (power weekend) so convenience is a factor (approaches are fine, but approach + large drive would be undesirable)
2. Sport or trad
3. Single or multi-pitch

Early thoughts are: Red Rock, RRG, Maple.

What epic destination am I missing? Thanks!
pfinnegan
From Boulder, CO
Joined May 7, 2004
54 points
Jan 11, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Ancient Art, of course.
In late April/early May 2015 I hit Red Rock, Indian Creek, Joshua Tree, Castle Valley, the Fisher Towers, and Zion... the only one that was uncomfortable was Zion, man was it ever hot in the sun at times. The others were all great, especially Joshua Tree and Red Rock. gavinsmith
From Toronto, Ontario
Joined Feb 23, 2014
87 points
Jan 11, 2016
The Valley Eric Engberg
Joined Apr 28, 2009
2 points
Jan 11, 2016
If you haven't been to Yosemite yet, I would put that high on your list. You wouldn't be disappointed. Mark Thesing
From Central Indiana
Joined Apr 20, 2010
63 points
Jan 11, 2016
pfinnegan wrote:
In early May, where can I find the best climbing in the lower 48? Constraints: 1. 3-4 day trip (power weekend) so convenience is a factor (approaches are fine, but approach + large drive would be undesirable) 2. Sport or trad 3. Single or multi-pitch Early thoughts are: Red Rock, RRG, Maple. What epic destination am I missing? Thanks!

What is a large drive to you?
Where are you driving from?
Marc801
From Sandy, Utah
Joined Feb 25, 2014
64 points
Jan 11, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: A cold one after a trail day at the Red.
Maple would be great. Red Rocks would be hot as balls in May. Eric Carlos
From Slade, KY
Joined Aug 30, 2008
87 points
Jan 11, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: tahquitz!
Thanks for the responses! I'll be traveling from Boulder.

What I meant by long drive is from wherever "base" is for destination x, I don't want to drive an hour and then face a > 1 hour approach. If I'm camping in the area, then a longer approach is fine.

Basically I want to maximize time on the rock. I plan to travel day 1, climb days 2,3,4 and travel day 4.

Is Red Rocks really that bad in early May? I was dreaming about the OR.
pfinnegan
From Boulder, CO
Joined May 7, 2004
54 points
Jan 11, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks
pfinnegan wrote:
Is Red Rocks really that bad in early May?


Yes.
kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Joined Aug 12, 2010
2,061 points
Jan 11, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt Stuart North Ridge
By "dreaming about the OR" do you mean the rainbow wall original route? If so that wall stays shady and cool and would definitely be a worthy objective for a power weekend. I climbed it in late april and wore a jacket at belays. Approach is a different story, bring lots of water. verticalworldtraveler
From Redmond, OR
Joined Nov 9, 2013
222 points
Jan 11, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: tahquitz!
Yes - thinking about the Rainbow Wall OR. And also other potentially shady outings, maybe on the BV wall (Fiddler, Texas Hold'em, etc).

Changing gears...what about RRG? Are conditions ideal in early May?
pfinnegan
From Boulder, CO
Joined May 7, 2004
54 points
Jan 11, 2016
Temps are good at RRG in May but rain is going to be a crapshoot. Mark Thesing
From Central Indiana
Joined Apr 20, 2010
63 points
Jan 11, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Skiing around.
pfinnegan wrote:
Yes - thinking about the Rainbow Wall OR. And also other potentially shady outings, maybe on the BV wall (Fiddler, Texas Hold'em, etc).


I have spent many late May, early June days in BV, it is one of the best kept secrets of RR. Also good that time of year is Challenger Wall, Jet Stream Wall and the Blood Wall.

edit to add: I climbed Drifitng (Jet Stream Wall) on June 1, 2014. Wall went into the shade around 12:00 noon, temps in town were close to 100 (around 90 for Red Rock). Totally comfortable in shorts and t-shirt on the wall.
Darren in Vegas
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 13, 2006
2,230 points
Jan 11, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: tahquitz!
Thank you Darren. Drifting looks sick! pfinnegan
From Boulder, CO
Joined May 7, 2004
54 points
Jan 11, 2016
Mark Thesing wrote:
Temps are good at RRG in May but rain is going to be a crapshoot.

Yeah don't come to the Red it sux
ottice webb
From Stanton KY
Joined Nov 29, 2013
8 points
Jan 11, 2016
Mark Thesing wrote:
Temps are good at RRG in May but rain is going to be a crapshoot.

Yeah don't come to the Red it sux
ottice webb
From Stanton KY
Joined Nov 29, 2013
8 points


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