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Early Bird Special 

WI4+ M4-5 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 300'
Original: WI4+ M4-5 PG13 [details]
FA: Joe Szot and Chris Fey Dec 2003
Page Views: 41
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Mar 1, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Cascade Cliff

Description 

According to Blue Lines, Dec 2003 had super ice build up. A month later Todd Morgan and I found thinner but climbable ice. While Blue Lines gave the direct rock start an M4, I thought it much harder (very thin) but don't know enough about M grades, so put it in as "M4-5".

I recall the opening rock moves as being unprotected, thin and strenuous. Harder by far than "Slutty Other" (3+). According to Blue Lines, one can also reach the upper drip/flow by climbing in from the left on ledges [Red dashes] (reduces the M grade). Blue Lines also shows the regular route starting and going up the initial slab on the left side of the slab [Blue dashes], while I recollect Todd leading pretty much directly up the middle. [Black on photo]


See Photo - I think we skipped the cedar tree belay and Todd ran it out to the top, but I may be wrong on that.

Location 

Pretty much the middle drip on the Main Cliff. See photo

Protection 

Ice is pretty thin.


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