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Eagle's Nest T 

Eagle's Nest 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Old School
Page Views: 526
Submitted By: Brent Barghahn on Apr 14, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: View from the base

Description 

Route starts left of a tree at the slab roughly 50 feet downstream from Devil's Chair. Start up the continuous right leaning crack. Pull a bulge then continue to top out the slab to a 6 foot ledge. Step left and build an anchor. From the anchor, lead straight up the clean face into the dihedral and under a dead tree. At the end of the dihedral, step right, then go up the steep headwall with great hand cracks. Walk left and back from the cliff to build an anchor. Be sure to give a proper "Ka-Kaw!" at the summit of Eagle's Nest.

Hike up to the road, and descend the gully next to Devils Chair to get back to the base.

The two pitches can easily be linked, but forces good rope drag management practice. This climb is an awesome beginner multipitch lead with great jams for the grade.

I am sure this route has a different name, but it seems to be lost from any guidebooks. Please comment with any details!

Location 

50 ft downstream from Devil's Chair

Protection 

Standard Rack. Trad only, no TR


Photos of Eagle's Nest Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1

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