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The Early Bird Crag
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Angry Birds S 
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Early Bird Arete S 
Edge of Glory, The S 
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Silt in the Saddle Stitching S 
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Yankee Strikes Again, The S 

Eagle's Nest 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Darren and Jennifer Knezek, Matt Selman
Season: Morning sun
Page Views: 1,198
Submitted By: CHopwood on Jul 8, 2012

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exposure from the top of the eagles nest

Description 

Need a Maple Canyon hero pic for your collection? This is the perfect route for you!
P1- This is the crux pitch with a very steep and powerful start. The crux comes after the 4th bolt, when you are forced onto a short sequence of two tiny crimps and committing moves. You can also chicken out and do Eagle Tenders to the right and join the second pitch of the climb. 30M of 5.10c
P2- Clip the bolt between the anchors of Eagle's Nest and Eagle Tenders and continue upwards on huge holds. 15M of 5.8
P3- Easy climbing on huge holds. Only a few bolts. 15M of 5.6
P4- Easy but unprotected jaunt across the top of the formation and two gullies, past two bolts to the summit block. Belay from a two bolt belay for the last few moves. 15M of 5.0
P5- Pull a bulge onto the summit block and pose for pictures! 20ft of 5.9
Descent: Rap X3. Rap from the 5th chains to the third chains. Then rap from the 3rd to the first chains, and once more to the ground. All with one 60m rope. This is by far the chossiest climb I've done in Maple so be prepared. The belay stations are in good locations to miss falling rock but still bring a helmet and be incredibly careful. You pass through several seams of rotten rock. If you've climbed at Maple much, you will recognize them. It will be many more ascents before this route cleans up.

Location 

This is the first route you pass, on the far left side of the wall.

Protection 

12 quickdraws to chains + slings and lockers.


Photos of Eagle's Nest Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Beautiful view up canyon from the summit.
Beautiful view up canyon from the summit.
Rock Climbing Photo: On the summit of Eagle's Nest!
On the summit of Eagle's Nest!

Comments on Eagle's Nest Add Comment
Show which comments
By EricV
From: Woodbury, MN
Feb 19, 2015

This climb is awesome. My first sport multi-pitch and it got me hooked. My partner and I got to the top and had nothing but smiles as we looked around the canyon. Didn't notice too much choss, but there are always pebbles falling. We did this a couple summers ago, and I'm planning a trip down there, hoping to get some friends on it as well! The scrample (P4) is interesting, but the first couple pitches are awesome, and the last 3 move boulder problem is fun!
By AlexGreen
Apr 28, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The first half of the first pitch gives this one the grade. Bouldery start to a pumpy headwall. Bring your sunscreen, as this thing gets lots of it!