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Eagle's Nest Powell Traverse T 

Eagle's Nest Powell Traverse 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5000', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: Curt Krieser, Howard Friedman, 1943
Season: Summer
Page Views: 738
Submitted By: Ryan Marsters on Aug 20, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Crux corner/crack right.


This is typical Gore. Scramble along top at 3rd to 5.easy, depending on route-choice, over and around fun gendarmes, slabs, and blocky ridge. As is usual in the Gore, there are bypasses available on the West side.

The crux is near the saddle - a slabby start to right facing dihedral just off the West side of the ridge. It is airy 5.3/5.4 or so for 40 feet. Go EN->Powell to upclimb.

The traverse can be completed via lower West side ledges at Class 3/4.

Descend Powell via the South slopes (class 2) to Kneeknocker Pass (regain required), the South ridge (scramble), or via the South slopes and then cutting over the South Ridge (Class 3 briefly).


I recommend daytripping from Piney and going over the pass between the Corners and Powell to gain the West Ridge up Eagle's Nest. This saves time setting up a shuttle involving the Cataract TH.


Small alpine rack. Perhaps a rope to belay a second. Terrain belays and pro options abound.

Photos of Eagle's Nest Powell Traverse Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Powell from EN.
BETA PHOTO: Powell from EN.

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