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Eagle's Beak 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bernard and John Gillett, 1994
Season: Year round
Page Views: 637
Submitted By: 1rsties4life on Oct 9, 2011

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Getting into crux.


P1. Climb the finger crack beneath the large roof with a pillar at its start.

P2. Traverse right under the roof and into the chimney and climb to its top.

P3. Climb the open book dihedral to a belay below the obvious offwidth crack that cuts through the eagle's beak.

P4. Escape right along a ramp to the top of the ridge, or do the last pitch of Neighsayer.

It is possible to combine the last 2 pitches into one.


This is directly below the horsehead to the right of the Sea Biscuit alcove.


Standard rack.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Crack start of Eagle's Beak.
Crack start of Eagle's Beak.

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By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Aug 11, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

There is a bolt anchor above the chimney on what is described as pitch 2.

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