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Eagle Lake Buttress
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Eagle Route 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Dave Beck, Norm Wilson, 1963.
Page Views: 4,651
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: "Eagle Route". Photo by Blitzo.


This route follows the right side of the "V" mentioned in "The Wind Tree" description.

Climb the right crack to a ledge belay.

Another pitch leads to a belay at the top of a groove.

Move left to a chimney, follow this to the East Ridge. Climb that to the top.


Pro to 4".

Photos of Eagle Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The fun knobby crack on pitch 1.
The fun knobby crack on pitch 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up from the bottom of Eagle Route and Wind...
Looking up from the bottom of Eagle Route and Wind...

Comments on Eagle Route Add Comment
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By 426
Mar 19, 2007

Great route in a great setting.
By philfell
From: Olympic Valley, CA
Aug 3, 2009

Great climb. Very little loose rock compared to other easy rated alpine climbs I've done. Lots of cobwebs when we climbed it so I don't think this gets climbed too often, although we did clip a fixed nut and cam that didn't seem to be there for too long.

Takes great pro the whole way. We did this in three pitches. First pitch, almost a full 60 meters, ground up through the "V" section belay where the angle eases below a few bushes. Second pitch, again almost a full 60 meters, up past the couple bushes up easy ground to the chimney section, continue up the path of least resistance to a big ledge area. Third pitch find the easiest path to the summit block.

I placed everything from a green alien up through a #4 Camelot. If I were to do this again I would only bring a set of nuts, #.5-#2 Camelot with a double in #1 and #2. Although I placed a #4 in the Chimney it was not needed, a #2 would have gone in a foot above or a foot below. I also placed a #3 at the first belay, but if I had an extra #2 it would have worked better. Lots of nut placements. There are no anchors so bring enough gear that you feel comfortable with.

We had to get a bit creative on the decent. I couldn't find a way off that we felt comfortable downclimbing so we did one rap and left some webbing in the saddle below the summit.
By Josh Cameron
From: California in my Mind
Jul 17, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Fun east climb with great pro. The crack on the first pitch had lots of knobs for feet and hands.
By splitclimber
Sep 15, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great route but I think it is much harder than 5.5. A steep double crack spot before the V and getting up into the flared chimney sure felt all of 5.7 to me.

We climbed the nice crack/flake to the right of the mentioned groove which was really good. We did it in 3 pitches to the ridge mostly because I sewed up the first pitch to below the V and didn't have enough gear to keep going.

I liked this much more than the ridge route.
By MacksWhineturd
From: Squaw
May 26, 2016

Best 5.5 I've ever climbed.

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