Eagle rock was one of the first areas in New Brunswick to be climbed. It was first explored by climbers in the mid 70s with a few lines in the 5.1 to 5.5 grade that may be a little stiff by todays standards. The climbing continued in this area for a few years but when Cochrane lane became more popular in the late 70 and early 80s, the early climber focused on the larger wall across the valley.
Some of the first climbers in NB were Tom Buzz, Colin Bell and G. Lacroix. These early rock climbers opened free climbs like Toms Route and the wire Brush Special at Eagle rock but also put up some of the classics in Welsford like Gollums Cave, Cheekbone corner, waterfall layback and pink panther. These routes have been re-graded in the last few years and still remain as test pieces in New Brunswick.
Eagle rock has had little development science the 70s. There was another aid line done by Steve Adamson that ascends the left wall, there a few pins left from the first and only accent. And Steve also added a few small but stout free/trad climbs on the left wall.
The most current development was a few of the old aid lines from the time were finally freed by Bowles and Cruickshank around 2004.
This Area is located on private land is not part of base Gagetown's restriction. You do not have to contact CFB to climb here but please be respectful and don't trash the place.
Located on the right side of highway 7 coming from Fredericton, its between the Irving in Welsford and the first exit in to Grand Bay-Westfield. You can pull off at the picnic area walk on the high way towards the Irving, there is a small cairn off of the left side of the road where the trail starts. The trail is currently marked with orange flagging tape and will lead to the great roof.
Climbing Season For the New Brunswick area.
Weather station 20.4 miles from here
40 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Eagle Rock
Welcome To Welsford 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b North America
: ... : The Hex Wall
What an impressive 70 foot slightly overhanging climb that follows a thin crack starting on the left side of the wall and trends right before finishing at the top of the wall. While the thin crack offers enough protection to climb this traditionally the route is mostly face climbing with few good rests. The starting hold is height dependent so there is a cheater stone build to start the route. It would not be a bad idea to TR this and look at the gear before trying the red point if this is re...[more] Browse More Classics in International
Sep 27, 2016
This is a fantastic cliff. Super cool that it has had more recent development. By the way it is not on CFB Gagetown property so you don't have to call in to go. Check it out!