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Eagle Rock

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Great Roof Area, The 
Hex Wall, The 
Left Side, The 

Eagle Rock Rock Climbing 


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Location: 45.43084, -66.31572 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,951
Administrators: Dom, Ian Lingley, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ian Lingley on Feb 20, 2012
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Must contact CFB Gagetown Range Control MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Eagle rock was one of the first areas in New Brunswick to be climbed. It was first explored by climbers in the mid 70’s with a few lines in the 5.1 to 5.5 grade that may be a little stiff by today’s standards. The climbing continued in this area for a few years but when Cochrane lane became more popular in the late 70 and early 80’s, the early climber focused on the larger wall across the valley.
Some of the first climbers in NB were Tom Buzz, Colin Bell and G. Lacroix. These early rock climbers opened free climbs like Tom’s Route and the wire Brush Special at Eagle rock but also put up some of the classics in Welsford like Gollum’s Cave, Cheekbone corner, waterfall layback and pink panther. These routes have been re-graded in the last few years and still remain as test pieces in New Brunswick.
Eagle rock has had little development science the 70’s. There was another aid line done by Steve Adamson that ascends the left wall, there a few pins left from the first and only accent. And Steve also added a few small but stout free/trad climbs on the left wall.
The most current development was a few of the old aid lines from the time were finally freed by Bowles and Cruickshank around 2004.

This Area is located on private land is not part of base Gagetown's restriction. You do not have to contact CFB to climb here but please be respectful and don't trash the place.

Getting There 

Located on the right side of highway 7 coming from Fredericton, it’s between the Irving in Welsford and the first exit in to Grand Bay-Westfield. You can pull off at the picnic area walk on the high way towards the Irving, there is a small cairn off of the left side of the road where the trail starts. The trail is currently marked with orange flagging tape and will lead to the great roof.

Climbing Season

For the New Brunswick area.

Weather station 20.4 miles from here

40 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',3],['5.8',8],['5.9',8],['5.10',5],['5.11',6],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Eagle Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom's Route

Tom's Route 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c  North America : Canada : ... : The Great Roof Area
This is a stunningly marvelous rock climb. Everything about it is perfect; the movement, the rock, the gear, variety, etc., etc. Absolute must do. History: This route was put up in 1976 by Tom Butz and the original grade was 5.1. It has been adjusted to reflect current grading practices. This is also the oldest recorded rock climb in New Brunswick....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Comments on Eagle Rock Add Comment
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By gph
Sep 27, 2016
This is a fantastic cliff. Super cool that it has had more recent development. By the way it is not on CFB Gagetown property so you don't have to call in to go. Check it out!