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Eagle Peak aka The Rock Band

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Rick's Boulder aka The Beak 

Eagle Peak aka The Rock Band Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 9,000'
Location: 40.475, -121.51614 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,142
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Muscrat on Jun 3, 2015
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Subject to winter road closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A long band of single pitch volcanic routes, everything from 5.4 to 5.13+ projects, trad, sport, and toprope. This is a great place to beat the heat of the lower elevations and still be in the sun.
All lines can be toproped, although setting anchors on some can be difficult and/or dangerous.
Depending on the snow load, some of the bases of these climbs can be under 10' of snow in the spring. The springtime approach can be arduous, slick snow/ice to post-holing. The descent can be exciting, too. Walking sticks are very helpful. Figure 45 minutes from the car to the base. Don't forget the sunscreen!
Most climbs require gear anchors. Walk off to climbers right (easy 3rd class). For climbs far to the left there is a infrequently used 3rd class descent. As one becomes more familiar with the crag, one can find the bolted belays, and rap from these.
Once again, kudos and thanks to Paul Bernard for his great guide book "Rock Climbs of Northern California" without which i would not know half the names and info on these climbs.
Many of the bolts on Eagle Peak are old, rusty time-bombs. Do not assume because they are there they are safe. Use discretion and common sense.

Getting There 

From the Lassen Peak parking lot head west 200' and then trend left (south) around the hill to your left. Walk across the wide expanse heading towards Eagle Peak (in front of you) and up the steep incline to the beginning of the rock band of Eagle Peak. There is a trail with cairns which can be snow covered well into summer.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.8 miles from here

53 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',3],['5.8',6],['5.9',5],['5.10',21],['5.11',8],['5.12',4],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Eagle Peak aka The Rock Band

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Eagle Peak aka The Rock Band:
Bowling Ball Left   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 65'   Peapod and Right
Peapod   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 70'   Peapod and Right
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Eagle Peak aka The Rock Band

Featured Route For Eagle Peak aka The Rock Band
Rock Climbing Photo: Orangahang.

Orangahang 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  California : Northeast California : ... : Left of Peapod
Start up difficult to protect easy boulder problem to a low angle bushy crack. at approximately 40' the business starts. Fingers to hands to offhands/fists, a left arching steep crack you wish went on for 1,000'! Just beautiful. Much harder then 10.b if you just use the crack. Eats nuts....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

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