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Eagle Lake Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Wind Tree T 
A Line T 
Crowd Control T 
Eagle Buttress Traverse T 
Eagle Route T 
East Ridge Route T 
Escape, The T 
Monkey Business T 
Orange Book T 
Orange Sunshine T 
Tom sans Bob T,TR 

Eagle Lake Buttress Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,640'
Location: 38.9504, -120.136 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 14,379
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 18, 2006
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This prominent buttress, towers at the south end of a long ridge about a mile west of Eagle Lake.
Good rock and excellent views make this a fine place to climb.

[Note: Some parties that summit with ample time and energy report enjoying the ridge traverse uphill from the top of Eagle Lake Buttress proper.]

Getting There 

To reach the buttress, cross the outlet at Eagle Lake and follow a ravine to a ridge that leads to the base.
The approach takes about 1.5 hours.

Climbing Season

For the Eagle Creek Canyon area.

Weather station 8.0 miles from here

11 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Eagle Lake Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Eagle Lake Buttress:
Eagle Route   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches   
East Ridge Route   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Orange Book   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches   
Orange Sunshine   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 260'   
Wind Tree   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Eagle Lake Buttress

Featured Route For Eagle Lake Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: "Eagle Route". Photo by Blitzo.

Eagle Route 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a  California : Lake Tahoe : ... : Eagle Lake Buttress
This route follows the right side of the "V" mentioned in "The Wind Tree" description.Climb the right crack to a ledge belay.Another pitch leads to a belay at the top of a groove.Move left to a chimney, follow this to the East Ridge. Climb that to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Eagle Lake Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Eagle Lake Buttress. Photo by Blitzo.
Eagle Lake Buttress. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Making our way down the slabs back to the base of ...
Making our way down the slabs back to the base of ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Perfect day
Perfect day
Rock Climbing Photo: The buttress sits way up there.
The buttress sits way up there.

Comments on Eagle Lake Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By timmaly
Jul 27, 2013
Climbed this via Eagle Route a few weeks ago. Really cool alpine adventure, despite the low climbing/hiking ratio. Reminded me of Cathedral in Tuolumne, though with a longer and harder hike and shorter climb. I left some green webbing slung around a block and a hanger (both brand new) for the rap off the summit to the slabby descent.
By Will Gilkison
From: Wheatland, CA
Aug 25, 2013
Timmaly -

We used your gear to rap down after summiting via the East Ridge Route, it's still in good shape, although no longer green.
By SWGuillemot
Jun 3, 2015
The scramble in took a quite a bit more than an hour and a half. Granted this was my first time off trail in the back country. I would allow a bit more time and start early in the day if you are not experienced in back country hiking. The green sling and biners were gone, so I left one of my own for the rap down. Please leave for the good of the order!
By splitclimber
Sep 15, 2015
give yourself 2 hours for the approach. The rocky/brushy gully is a much better approach than the slabs.

The walk off is easy. downclimb past the small pillar to the notch, climb up a 8 foot rock flake to a sloped top out. It is easy and there is no need to rap the mountaineer's route.
By Xocomil
From: South Lake Tahoe
Dec 20, 2015
If you go up here and don't do the traverse, it isn't really worth it. I found the entire traverse (leading up improbable gendarmes, bouldering and simulclibing etc) to be a ton of fun.
By MacksWhineturd
From: Squaw
May 26, 2016
Tahoe mini alpine climbing. I like to approach up the slabs but scramble down the rocky gully directly to Eagle Lake for a little swim. The views from the top are stupidly gorgeous. I suppose you could rap from the top, but I've always downclimbed the westish side.
By Ashley Wiley
Jul 26, 2016
My husband was up on the buttress on July 13th 2016 taking photos for work when he tragically fell and died. Search and Rescue recovered MOST but not ALL of his camera gear and clothing. If you find any gear up there, please contact me. Thank you!
By Jskierpx
From: Truckee, California
Jul 19, 2017
Repeating what others have said, this is an awesome "Tahoe mini alpine adventure" and a "mini-Cathedral peak". If you know the approach and are an efficient hiker, you can make it from the car to the base of the climb in 1-1.5 hours no problem. The approach climbs 1,600 feet in 2 miles.

We climbed Orange Sunshine and found it to be in the 5.8-5.9 range. Well protected, quality climbing. Yes you only get 2-3 pitches of climbing from a slightly burly approach, but it is worth the effort. The day as a whole is great. From getting a good workout hiking, a killer view of the lake and emerald bay, good rock quality, no crowds, and a dip into Eagle Lake afterwards, it is worth the energy.

As far as rapping off of the top, we found a cordelette wrapped around a horn. Hopefully people don't loot the booty as it was a safe and a convenient way to retreat down to the slabs.


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