REI Community
Eagle Falls

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adsite Arete T 
Class Five S 
Dobsonfly T 
Eagle Has Landed, The S 
El Supremo S 
Face of a Thousand Cracks T 
Fipi Lele T,TR 
Go to Bread T 
Grumpy Racoon T 
Gypsy's Curse T 
Hot n' Stanky T 
Hydrofax , The S 
Lichen or Not T 
Lloyds of Lowville S 
Monkey Bars and Geetar Stars T 
Naked Truth T,TR 
No Fun at Camp, No Sex at Breakfast T 
Oral in the Dark T,TR 
Promiscuous Girl S 
Ravenous S 
Red Book T 
Sammy-Jo Traceyville T 
Seventeen T 
Soft Maple Times T 
Stihl Water T 
Three Raccoons in a Patagonia Fleece S 
Trap 'em! S 

Eagle Falls Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.9051, -75.1959 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 15,621
Administrators: Kris Fiore, Jim Lawyer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jim Lawyer on Jun 6, 2011
Forecast:
Today

81° | 59°
Sunday

85° | 59°
Monday

85° | 59°
Tuesday

84° | 59°
Wednesday

80° | 52°
Thursday

62° | 42°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
One of the most impressive roof systems in the Adi...

The Old Forge area is a patchwork of private and public property. Please respect private property and posted signs, and avoid climbing or trespassing on private property unless you have permission from the landowner.

Description 

This crag runs alongside the Beaver River just downstream from Beaver Lake. The rock is very brittle, but has unusual hidden holds that make the faces, aretes, and roofs very climbable. The natural crack lines tend to be chossy and, due to the nature of the brittle rock, a bit suspect.

This cliff is in a pleasant, remote area with open woods and great swimming holes a mere feet away. There is no road noise; in fact, the sound of the pounding rapids is so load that communication with a leader is often impossible.

The cliff is packed with high quality lines, most of which were put up since 2008; they are in the second edition of Adirondack Rock.

Highlights are Class Five, one of the largest climbable roofs in the Adirondacks that sits above a noisy rapid, Promiscuous Girl, a stunning arete, and El Supremo, a tricky, super-exposed face.

Getting There 

From Lowville, follow Number Four Road to near its end. About 1/2 mile east of the intersection with Stillwater Road, turn left onto Soft Maple Road. This road is unmarked but there is a brown sign that says, "Beaver River Canoe Route." Go about 2.5 miles, then turn right onto another dirt road signed "Beaver River Canoe Route". Drive 1/2 mile along the large green pipe on your right and park on the left.

Cross the road, walk down the stairs under the penstock, then follow a trail south to the cliff.

River Crossing 

One of the most beautiful parts of climbing at Eagle Falls is the river. Unfortunately, it also presents one of the greatest hurdles to climbing access.

Board Crossing:
In late summer and fall the river is usually low enough to be crossed using a board that is stashed along the river a few hundred feet upstream from the falls. Look for a boulder on the far side with a nice flat spot. Make sure to pull the board back up for our paddling friends!

Tyrolean Traverse
In summer of 2017 a fixed tryolean line was added to the cliff. From spring until mid-summer the water is usually too high to use the board crossing. It is a few hundred feet upstream from the usual board crossing. Make sure to use a pulley instead of a carabiner to reduce wear on the rope.

Canoe Crossing
If the river is high and the line is down or you don't feel like using it you can always bring some kind of boat and launch from the beaver river canoe run launch 1/8 mile north of the parking area into Beaver Lake and boat across the lake above the damn. It's about a 3 minute canoe ride and leads to a very obvious heardpath that brings you south to the top of the cliff.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.7 miles from here

27 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',4],['5.8',0],['5.9',4],['5.10',6],['5.11',4],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Eagle Falls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Eagle Falls:
Soft Maple Times   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 60'   
Seventeen   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Red Book   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Naked Truth   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Stihl Water   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Lloyds of Lowville   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
The Eagle Has Landed   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport   
Go to Bread   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Ravenous   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 75'   
Lichen or Not   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
El Supremo   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 90'   
Promiscuous Girl   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Eagle Falls

Featured Route For Eagle Falls
Rock Climbing Photo: Under the crux roof. Not a great photo, but the be...

Class Five 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  New York : Adirondacks : ... : Eagle Falls
Incredibly exposed, intricate, and puzzling climbing through a roof above a Class V rapid in the river (even in low water, the noise here is substantial). Up to the roof is spectacular 5.9.*From Adirondack Rock, Second Edition...[more]   Browse More Classics in New York

Photos of Eagle Falls Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: These flowers are all over the top of the face.
These flowers are all over the top of the face.
Rock Climbing Photo: Right side
Right side
Rock Climbing Photo: Face 2
Face 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Face
Face
Rock Climbing Photo: The Swimming hole at the entrance of Eagle Falls C...
The Swimming hole at the entrance of Eagle Falls C...

Comments on Eagle Falls Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 1, 2017
By SwineFlew
From: Watertown, NY
Mar 19, 2012
In the Spring the river really flows strongly and can easily sweep you off your feet. Instead of crossing the river where the guidebook says, bring an extra pair of shoes and just walk across the river where it widens. THe easiest spot I have seen is directly in front of you when you walk down the stairs under the green pipe. Your feet will get wet & cold, but thats better than falling in a deeper area and getting swept into the swimming hole.
Rock Climbing Photo: Slower water to cross, but guaranteed to get your ...
Slower water to cross, but guaranteed to get your feet wet. Directly across from the stairs.
By Alex Mitchell
From: Cincinnati, OH
Sep 3, 2012
A very cool area with lots of great climbs on solid, mostly clean rock. We did not know they were doing a release of the river so the river was about 2 feet higher when we left as when we came. I ended up dropping my rope in the river and getting pretty wet to the amusement of the about two hundred people swimming and watching the kayakers.
By katyg628
May 29, 2013
There was a rock climbing accident on route number 23, Stacked. The rock broke under the pressure of the cams in the crack. There are a lot of newly developed and rarely climbed routes here. Be careful with your gear placements and especially anchors. consider using a tree to be extra redundant.

A helmet saved my sister's life without a doubt. Her head hit a downed tree and the helmet caught it and jerked to the side instead of her skull. This is a first hand account. If you have a helmet wear it, if you don't have one get one.
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
May 30, 2013
katyg628: That's terrible about your sister's fall. I second the helmet advice at this cliff. (And, well, for pretty much any cliff.)

In my experience, the rock at Eagle Falls is friable and brittle. I've seen gear placements blow apart cracks that seemed solid. The original routes (and most of those documented in Adirondack Rock) were put in ground-up, have had no additional cleaning, and see very little traffic. Most need a session with a pry bar and scrub brush.

The newer routes (those documented here) have all been meticulously cleaned, prepared, and bolted and are a much safer option. But even on these routes, I recommend following your advice and wearing a helmet.
By NickG
From: Syracuse/Keene, NY
Sep 9, 2013
Flows can be checked here.

americanwhitewater.org/content...
By Shane Kenyon
Aug 26, 2015
Looks like the bear carcase is gone. Great climbs, didn't find it chossy at all. Looking forward to climbing here several more times this season!
By PeterW
From: Dryden, NY
Apr 17, 2016
Hornets nests at the cruxes of El Supremo and Welcome to the Machine on 4/16/16.
By Richard Beck
From: Fort Drum, NY
Apr 27, 2016
Have there been any routes put up between "Papa Don't Preach" and "El Supremo"? Seems like there are a lot of possible climbs all along the cliff.
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
May 11, 2017
As of May 10, 2017, The river is still too high to safely cross. Need a canoe to cross above the dam. The entire area is flooded with sooo much water.

Routes are dry, though.
By Kris Fiore
Administrator
From: Burlington, Vermont
Jul 4, 2017
July 1 update:

River still to high to cross using the boards. A difficult crossing can be made immediately at the bottom of the stairs (It's HARD) and then the canoe route is an option as well.
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Aug 1, 2017
As of July 30, 2017, the river is still too high to cross without a canoe. There is now a tyrolean upstream of the normal board crossing. Bring a pulley.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About