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Eagle Falls

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adsite Arete T 
Class Five S 
Dobsonfly T 
Eagle Has Landed, The S 
El Supremo T 
Face of a Thousand Cracks T 
Fipi Lele T,TR 
Go to Bread T 
Grumpy Racoon T 
Gypsy's Curse T 
Hot n' Stanky T 
Lichen or Not T 
Lloyds of Lowville T 
Monkey Bars and Geetar Stars T 
Naked Truth T,TR 
No Fun at Camp, No Sex at Breakfast T 
Oral in the Dark T,TR 
Promiscuous Girl S 
Ravenous T,S 
Red Book T 
Sammy-Jo Traceyville T 
Seventeen T 
Soft Maple Times T 
Stihl Water T 
Trap 'em! S 

Eagle Falls Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.9051, -75.1959 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 13,716
Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jim Lawyer on Jun 6, 2011
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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One of the most impressive roof systems in the Adi...

The Old Forge area is a patchwork of private and public property. Please respect private property and posted signs, and avoid climbing or trespassing on private property unless you have permission from the landowner.


This crag runs alongside the Beaver River just downstream from Beaver Lake. The rock is very brittle, but has unusual hidden holds that make the faces, aretes, and roofs very climbable. The natural crack lines tend to be chossy and, due to the nature of the brittle rock, a bit suspect.

This cliff is in a pleasant, remote area with open woods and great swimming holes a mere feet away. There is no road noise; in fact, the sound of the pounding rapids is so load that communication with a leader is often impossible.

The cliff is packed with high quality lines, most of which were put up since 2008; they are in the second edition of Adirondack Rock.

Highlights are Class Five, one of the largest climbable roofs in the Adirondacks that sits above a noisy rapid, Promiscuous Girl, a stunning arete, and El Supremo, a tricky, super-exposed face.

Getting There 

From Lowville, follow Number Four Road to near its end. About 1/2 mile east of the intersection with Stillwater Road, turn left onto Soft Maple Road. Go about 2.5 miles, then turn right onto another dirt road signed "Beaver River Canoe Route". Drive 1/2 mile and park on the left.

Cross the road, walk down the stairs under the penstock, then follow a trail to the cliff. Wade or swim across (in high water) to the cliff. There is also a wood plank (stashed in the woods) that is used to cross a narrow section of the river across from Ravenous.

Climbing Season

Weather station 8.7 miles from here

25 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Eagle Falls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Eagle Falls:
Soft Maple Times   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 60'   
Seventeen   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Red Book   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Naked Truth   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Stihl Water   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Lloyds of Lowville   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
The Eagle Has Landed   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport   
Ravenous   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport   
Lichen or Not   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
El Supremo   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 90'   
Promiscuous Girl   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Eagle Falls

Featured Route For Eagle Falls
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling though the roofs on Ravenous.

Ravenous 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  New York : Adirondacks : ... : Eagle Falls
Climb the beautiful corner past a few bolts and a gear placement or two (crux). After exiting the corner work left through the tiered roof system. Pull the roof and finish on easier blocky terrain. Awesome varied movement, exposure, and nice rock make this one of the best routes at eagle in my opinion. Unfortunately the corner is often wet....[more]   Browse More Classics in New York

Photos of Eagle Falls Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: These flowers are all over the top of the face.
These flowers are all over the top of the face.
Rock Climbing Photo: Right side
Right side
Rock Climbing Photo: Face 2
Face 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Face
Rock Climbing Photo: The Swimming hole at the entrance of Eagle Falls C...
The Swimming hole at the entrance of Eagle Falls C...

Comments on Eagle Falls Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jim Lawyer
May 11, 2017
As of May 10, 2017, The river is still too high to safely cross. Need a canoe to cross above the dam. The entire area is flooded with sooo much water.

Routes are dry, though.
By Kris Fiore
From: Burlington, Vermont
Jul 4, 2017
July 1 update:

River still to high to cross using the boards. A difficult crossing can be made immediately at the bottom of the stairs (It's HARD) and then the canoe route is an option as well.
By SwineFlew
From: Watertown, NY
Mar 19, 2012
In the Spring the river really flows strongly and can easily sweep you off your feet. Instead of crossing the river where the guidebook says, bring an extra pair of shoes and just walk across the river where it widens. THe easiest spot I have seen is directly in front of you when you walk down the stairs under the green pipe. Your feet will get wet & cold, but thats better than falling in a deeper area and getting swept into the swimming hole.
Rock Climbing Photo: Slower water to cross, but guaranteed to get your ...
Slower water to cross, but guaranteed to get your feet wet. Directly across from the stairs.
By Alex Mitchell
From: Cincinnati, OH
Sep 3, 2012
A very cool area with lots of great climbs on solid, mostly clean rock. We did not know they were doing a release of the river so the river was about 2 feet higher when we left as when we came. I ended up dropping my rope in the river and getting pretty wet to the amusement of the about two hundred people swimming and watching the kayakers.
By katyg628
May 29, 2013
There was a rock climbing accident on route number 23, Stacked. The rock broke under the pressure of the cams in the crack. There are a lot of newly developed and rarely climbed routes here. Be careful with your gear placements and especially anchors. consider using a tree to be extra redundant.

A helmet saved my sister's life without a doubt. Her head hit a downed tree and the helmet caught it and jerked to the side instead of her skull. This is a first hand account. If you have a helmet wear it, if you don't have one get one.
By Jim Lawyer
May 30, 2013
katyg628: That's terrible about your sister's fall. I second the helmet advice at this cliff. (And, well, for pretty much any cliff.)

In my experience, the rock at Eagle Falls is friable and brittle. I've seen gear placements blow apart cracks that seemed solid. The original routes (and most of those documented in Adirondack Rock) were put in ground-up, have had no additional cleaning, and see very little traffic. Most need a session with a pry bar and scrub brush.

The newer routes (those documented here) have all been meticulously cleaned, prepared, and bolted and are a much safer option. But even on these routes, I recommend following your advice and wearing a helmet.
By NickG
From: Syracuse/Keene, NY
Sep 9, 2013
Flows can be checked here.
By Shane Kenyon
Aug 26, 2015
Looks like the bear carcase is gone. Great climbs, didn't find it chossy at all. Looking forward to climbing here several more times this season!
By PeterW
From: Dryden, NY
Apr 17, 2016
Hornets nests at the cruxes of El Supremo and Welcome to the Machine on 4/16/16.
By Richard Beck
From: Fort Drum, NY
Apr 27, 2016
Have there been any routes put up between "Papa Don't Preach" and "El Supremo"? Seems like there are a lot of possible climbs all along the cliff.

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