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Eagle Creek Canyon

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Eagle Creek Canyon Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.9519, -120.1127 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 63,604
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Oct 7, 2002


62° | 38°

67° | 45°
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66° | 41°

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This area, located on the west side of Lake Tahoe just west of Emerald Bay offers incredible climbing of all varieties and grades with magnificent views of the nearby lake. Most of the climbing in Eagle Creek is on featured granite, which will cook in the sun on a hot day. It is possible to climb many of the rocks year round when they are dry.

The climbing areas here (except maybe the Mayhem Cove vicinity) are almost entirely inside the Tahoe Basin Management Unit side of the Desolation Wilderness, so double-check the latest official information at their website. As always, the wilderness ethic forbids power drills, and prefers the cleanest climbing possible. The trailhead has a self-registration box and sign that you should use before entering; at prime time there's often a friendly ranger there in person. You can camp anywhere you want in the Canyon, but you need a wilderness permit first. Overnight permits can be obtained in person 20 minutes south along highway 89 in South Lake Tahoe, or with advance planning through the wilderness website.

Getting There 

From the South: Head North along highway 89 out of South Lake Tahoe towards Homewood and Tahoe City. Travel about 10 miles to the Eagle Falls Trailhead, which is located alongside the large Emerald Bay. Park along the road for free, or park in the Eagle Lake lot for $2. The walk from the road to the parking lot takes about 45 seconds.

From the North: Travel south on Highway 89 out of Tahoe City towards Homewood and South Lake Tahoe. Travel about 20 miles to the Eagle Falls Trailhead.

Climbing Season

Weather station 7.0 miles from here

96 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',41],['2 Stars',37],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in Eagle Creek Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Eagle Creek Canyon:
Eagle Route   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches   Eagle Lake Buttress
Holdless Horror   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   90 Foot Wall
Strontium 90   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   90 Foot Wall
Unkown Chimney   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Eagle Lake Cliff
Car Jacker   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Mayhem Cove
Fallout   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   90 Foot Wall
Ice Nine   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   90 Foot Wall
Space Truckin'   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad   Eagle Lake Cliff
Lightning Bolt   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 80'   90 Foot Wall
Buster Brown   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad   Eagle Lake Cliff
Diamond   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Mayhem Cove
Between Two Worlds   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Eagle Creek Cliff
Off The Wall   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport   Eagle Lake Cliff
Seams to Me   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad   Eagle Lake Cliff
Quest for Glory   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad   Eagle Lake Cliff
Skullduggery   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Mayhem Cove
Eye of the Eagle   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Eagle Creek Cliff
Space Walk   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch   Eagle Lake Cliff
Huntin' Gator   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Mayhem Cove
Cajun Hell   5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Mayhem Cove
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Eagle Creek Canyon

Featured Route For Eagle Creek Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: The roof is just insane fun.  An obscure Tahoe cla...

Eye of the Eagle 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  California : Lake Tahoe : ... : Eagle Creek Cliff
Blocky climbing and a short hand crack are prelude to an intimidating four foot roof. The crux roof is wide jams and some interesting footwork. There are several ways to tackle it, but choose wisely.The rest of the climb is fairly sustained throughout the striking arc of the left leaning fingers to hand crack that follows. There is an off-width pod and a bit of face climbing to negotiate before the anchors, but the grade lightens up quite a bit at this point. There is a 10c variation that comes ...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Eagle Creek Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Emerald Bay from top of Eagle Falls. Photo by Blit...
Emerald Bay from top of Eagle Falls. Photo by Blit...
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy Doehring on Spread Eagle Roof. This roof fell...
Andy Doehring on Spread Eagle Roof. This roof fell...
Rock Climbing Photo: Eagle Falls. Photo by Blitzo.
Eagle Falls. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Eagle Lake Buttress. Photo by Blitzo.
Eagle Lake Buttress. Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Eagle Creek Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Scott Rice
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 8, 2010
Don't park on the bridge right above Eagle Falls. Just got a ticket today.
By Kevo
From: South Lake Tahoe
Aug 25, 2012
yeah, that is a $35 ticket for parking on the "sidewalk." There are no signs warning of the violation.
By Kris S
From: Illinois
Nov 12, 2013
Should all the trailhead names in the 'Getting There' section be Eagle FALLS trailhead?
By Justin Johnsen
From: California
Aug 14, 2014
Thanks Kristoffer, updated the trailhead name.

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