Top of Mrs. Buttersworth
|2016 Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>|
High above Rockville to the south, the Eagle Crag offers solitude away from the buses and sometimes overbearing tourists. The main tower, dubbed Aunt Jemima or Mrs. Butterworth's (due to its resemblance to these products) is the largest of the group.
The only route (so far) is the west side of the formation. Climb the tower via three pitches passing a few bolted anchors to the spectacular summit. Descend via rappels the same was you climbed up. A minimal rack is needed.
To access this area, drive across the historic Rockville bridge
and follow the dirt road as it turns west.
As you travel down this road keep and eye out for a dirt road on the left (south) side of the road. This road will take you to a dirt parking area. Any local can direct you how to get there. Last I knew, you could camp for FREE at this parking area. Times change quickly in this area, so that may not still be the case.
Climbing Season For the Zion National Park area.
Weather station 2.7 miles from here
1 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Eagle Crag
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Eagle Crag
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Eagle Crag:
Featured Route For Eagle Crag
Tooele Tower 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Utah
: Zion National Park
: Eagle Crag
Drive back and forth between Mosquito Cove and Zion enough and you can't help but wonder about that toothy ridge above Rockville.The most exotic-looking tooth, far left on the skyline from the road, has a short and sweet route on the backside path of least resistance. A perfect way to try out Zion sandstone without shuttles, tourists, and big wall logistics. We got beta from a drawn topo at the backcountry ranger desk in Zion and from m.project.The rock formation you climb seems to be called eit...[more] Browse More Classics in Utah
Summit of Tooele (a.k.a) Mrs. Butterworth tower.
BETA PHOTO: Pic (looking eastish) of the upper two thirds of t...
By Nate Brown
From: Wilson, Wy
Jul 24, 2009
Tooele Tower--Yo White Harlem!
May 1, 2015
Draw left at second pitch anchor. Let me know if you find it and your interested in returning it. Thanks