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Eagle Cliff T 

Eagle Cliff 

M4-5

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, 4 pitches, 500', Grade III
Original: M4-5 [details]
FA: 
Season: Winter
Page Views: 233
Submitted By: Ben Townsend on Feb 17, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Eagle Cliff

  • Peregrine falcon nesting MORE INFO >>>
  • Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This route was described as a 5.6 rock climb in the 1970s-era Geoff Childs guidebook. It would be an utterly horrible rock climb (even if it weren't closed for peregrine nesting), but it's a fine mixed route on frozen turf, rock, trees, and even a tiny bit of ice. First recorded winter ascent by Ben Townsend and Gilman Coryell, January 24, 2016.

    1. Steep turf and moss, a bit of ice, and some tree wrestling lead up the chimney to a nice stance out on the right with a convenient clump of birch trees for an anchor. (M4,115’)

    2. Dry-tool over a steep bulge and enter a long, occasionally tight chimney system. Pick any of several reasonable belay stances. (M5, 115-160’ depending on where you choose to belay)

    3. More awkward dry-tooling and turf bulges (note the antique rappel anchor on the right, consisting of a moss-covered cord around a block) lead to a couple of short ice climbing sections and vigorous tree wrestling, emerging on open ledges with oak trees. (M4-5, 120’)

    4. Up the oak ledges past short steps of easy ice climbing. (4th, 150’)

    Bushwhack up to the trail, bearing left when in doubt. At one point, a seemingly unclimbable headwall is breached by a slightly hidden slot on the left; the trail is a short distance above. Follow the trail left and down, reaching the fire road within a few yards of the parking lot.

    Location 

    The route starts only about 50’ above the trail, in an obvious tree-filled chimney just to the right of the center of the cliff.

    Protection 

    Full rock rack with pins, a couple of stubby screws, lots of long slings. A Spectre is nice, but not critical.


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