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Eagle Buttress, Left T 
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Eagle Buttress, Right Side 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 600', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: TM Herbert and Gordon Webster, July 1966
Page Views: 1,782
Submitted By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Mar 28, 2012

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Looking up Pitch 2. Lasso the horn for protection.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The pitch off Main Ledge is the business, a succession of mantles on dikes up a steep wall to a spectacular hand traverse right to an overhang. Surmount the overhang and belay. Climb a crack system to a wide gully then follow the Eagle Buttress, Left Side route for 200' to the top.

Location 

Follow the first two pitches of Eagle Buttress, Left Side to get to Main Ledge. From there follow a series of steep dikes on the right side of Eagle Buttress. Follow the standard Central Wall descent walk off.

Protection 

Gear up to 3"


Photos of Eagle Buttress, Right Side Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: caughtinside nears the P1 belay on Eagle Buttress ...
caughtinside nears the P1 belay on Eagle Buttress ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Peregrine feather en route. This route is closed i...
Peregrine feather en route. This route is closed i...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up Pitch 1, which goes leftward up the dik...
Looking up Pitch 1, which goes leftward up the dik...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitches 4 & 5 to the top....ug....but they go quic...
Pitches 4 & 5 to the top....ug....but they go quic...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3. Probably the best pitch on the route.
Pitch 3. Probably the best pitch on the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dow lassoing the horn at the start of Pitch 2.
Dow lassoing the horn at the start of Pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: A climber contemplates the steep hand-traverse on ...
A climber contemplates the steep hand-traverse on ...

Comments on Eagle Buttress, Right Side Add Comment
Show which comments
By BruceB
From: Reno, NV
Sep 27, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a real hidden gem (I guess mostly because of the nesting closures).
Had no trouble doing this in 4 pitches, we combined the last two 4th class pitches.

Supertopo calls P2 5.9 and P3 5.10a. I disagree, I think P2 is 10a/b and P3 is 5.9.

The P2 overhanging hand traverse followed by the roof and dyke hiking is committing and strenuous, and amazingly fun. Fantastic exposure. And the start to this pitch is pretty tough too, definitely lasso the knob for pro.

Found 3 pins on the route, all a bit rusty.
Took a #4 and used it, but you don't really need it.

Great climb, go do it and clean up the bit of vegetation on it (P4&5 has lots of vegetation which isn't going anywhere, oh well).
By DylanJK
From: Berkeley, CA
Oct 10, 2016

I agree, P2 is spectacular and harder than 5.9.

You can climb the whole route in 3 pitches with a 70. Supertopo shows p2-3 totaling 190' to the ledge that hits the gully but judging by how much rope was left, I'm guessing 210+ feet?
By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Oct 13, 2016

Did this rope solo a few days ago. A few notes.

Pitch one starts with 15 feet of 5.9 climbing to a questionable pin. Move left and place a good small nut. Above that is a cam placement against a loose flake. OK but hard not to use the flake to move higher. Move further left and go up so-so climbing to the large ledge. Far right is a bolted belay/rap station. 180 ft. Off of this the knob toss. I initially did this, and then decided instead to move further right, up and around the roof, and then back left out the hand traverse to a bolted belay. This seems like the option that is more in line with a Tahoe 5.9 rating. I also did the moves associated with the knob toss and found them considerably harder than 5.9

The climbing I did to the right was very good, except there is a large scary flake just 15 ft off the belay, and before the roof. It is hollow.

Anyway, the descriptions given in this section don't match the climb I did onpitch two.
After the bolted belay, head back left and follow the crack up. Really nice juggy steep climbing. Rope soloing I did two and three as one pitch. It is about 210 feet into the gully. At the top of the gully there is some very exposed easy fifth class climbing.