|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches, 600', Grade II|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||TM Herbert and Gordon Webster, July 1966|
|Submitted By:||Bruce Hildenbrand on Mar 28, 2012|
|Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Eagle Buttress, Right Side||Add Comment|
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From: Reno, NV
Sep 27, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
This is a real hidden gem (I guess mostly because of the nesting closures).
Had no trouble doing this in 4 pitches, we combined the last two 4th class pitches.
Supertopo calls P2 5.9 and P3 5.10a. I disagree, I think P2 is 10a/b and P3 is 5.9.
The P2 overhanging hand traverse followed by the roof and dyke hiking is committing and strenuous, and amazingly fun. Fantastic exposure. And the start to this pitch is pretty tough too, definitely lasso the knob for pro.
Found 3 pins on the route, all a bit rusty.
Took a #4 and used it, but you don't really need it.
Great climb, go do it and clean up the bit of vegetation on it (P4&5 has lots of vegetation which isn't going anywhere, oh well).
From: Berkeley, CA
Oct 10, 2016
I agree, P2 is spectacular and harder than 5.9.
You can climb the whole route in 3 pitches with a 70. Supertopo shows p2-3 totaling 190' to the ledge that hits the gully but judging by how much rope was left, I'm guessing 210+ feet?
From: Petaluma California
Oct 13, 2016
Did this rope solo a few days ago. A few notes.
Pitch one starts with 15 feet of 5.9 climbing to a questionable pin. Move left and place a good small nut. Above that is a cam placement against a loose flake. OK but hard not to use the flake to move higher. Move further left and go up so-so climbing to the large ledge. Far right is a bolted belay/rap station. 180 ft. Off of this the knob toss. I initially did this, and then decided instead to move further right, up and around the roof, and then back left out the hand traverse to a bolted belay. This seems like the option that is more in line with a Tahoe 5.9 rating. I also did the moves associated with the knob toss and found them considerably harder than 5.9
The climbing I did to the right was very good, except there is a large scary flake just 15 ft off the belay, and before the roof. It is hollow.
Anyway, the descriptions given in this section don't match the climb I did onpitch two.
After the bolted belay, head back left and follow the crack up. Really nice juggy steep climbing. Rope soloing I did two and three as one pitch. It is about 210 feet into the gully. At the top of the gully there is some very exposed easy fifth class climbing.