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Elevation: 677 ft
GPS: 44.79328, -68.49641
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 87,848 total · 467/month
Shared By: Matty Zane on Oct 5, 2008 · Updates
Admins: BDalhaus, Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

Welcome to Eagle Bluff Suggest change

Looking northwest at Eagle Bluff. Walls and some routes labeled. This is from the Clifton Climbers Alliance website, which was set up to preserve climbing access to the public, so there should be no copyright issue.

NOTE Sub-Areas Entrance Wall to Right End are organized Left > Right R Hall , Admin

Eagle Bluff is Clifton's most popular and well-known climbing area with over 130 sport and trad routes as well as a collection of boulders that hold over five dozen problems. Climbers of all kinds will find enjoyable lines. Trad cracks? Check. Hyper-technical slabs? Check. Overhanging sport climbs? Check. Multipitch? Check. Routes range from 5.easy to 5.12d with a few projects still waiting for an ascent. The boulder problems are mostly in the V0-V3 range, but there are a few unfinished lines and a handful of V5-V6s.

Access is secured and most of the anchors are brand new thanks to the efforts of the CCA.

There are now 3 signed parking lots!

North Lot - Park here to have quick access to the Practice Wall and the left end of Eagle Bluff. This is also the best way to access the summit. 10 minutes to the climbing.

Overflow Lot - Located in the middle. The crowds are non-existent, so you may never have to park here.


South Lot
- Park here to walk into the boulders or to access the middle or right end of Eagle Bluff. Allow 8 minutes to the boulders or 12-15 to the cliffs.

Finishing up Eagle Direct

Getting There Suggest change

From the intersection of route 9 and 180, drive 2.6 miles south on route 180. The northern parking area will be on the left after about 2.5 miles, followed by the overflow parking and finally the southern parking area.  If you reach Springy Pond Road you are in the vicinity of the parking areas but missed them all, which are back towards Route 9.

99 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Eagle Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 30
Easy Stuff
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 22
Slice of the Gunks
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 18
Witch Wonder
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 25
Upside down staircase
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 27
Walk on the Mild Side
Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 31
Happy Face
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 48
Bivy Route
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 28
Crankcase
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 34
The Eagle's Gift
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 39
Highlander
Sport 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 57
Wheaties
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 15
Entrance Exam
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 12
Blaze of Glory
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 13
All Seriousness Aside
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 24
Eagle Direct
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Easy Stuff 02. Practice Wall Left
 30
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
Slice of the Gunks 07. Edges & Ledges Area
 22
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Witch Wonder 05. The Roofs
 18
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Upside down staircase 03. Practice Wall Right
 25
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Walk on the Mild Side 04. Main Face
 27
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Happy Face 02. Practice Wall Left
 31
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Bivy Route 05. The Roofs
 48
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Crankcase 03. Practice Wall Right
 28
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
The Eagle's Gift 05. The Roofs
 34
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Highlander 05. The Roofs
 39
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Wheaties 04. Main Face
 57
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Entrance Exam 01. Entrance Wall
 15
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Blaze of Glory 06. Power Wall
 12
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
All Seriousness Aside 04. Main Face
 13
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Eagle Direct 04. Main Face
 24
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Eagle Bluff »

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