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(e) Maiden Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Fool's Rush T 
Illegitimate, The T 
Iron Maiden T 
Looking Backward T 
Maiden Heaven T 
Maiden Voyage T 
Warm Fuzzies T 
White Maiden's Walkaway T 
Z Crack, The T 
Zeno's Paradox T 

(e) Maiden Buttress Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,000'
Location: 33.76038, -116.68417 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 25,520
Administrators: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006

49° | 34°

52° | 39°

56° | 43°

57° | 43°

61° | 46°

63° | 47°
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BETA PHOTO: Tahquitz Rock overview, Idyllwild


Maiden Buttress forms the left skyline, as seen from Lunch Rock. The longer routes finish on the gentle shoulder to the southwest of the summit. From here, the easiest way down is to scramble up to the summit, then (Class 2/3) southeast to the saddle, and then take the trail clockwise all the way around the rock. A quicker and shorter way is to descend the Friction Route. This starts just east of a large boulder at the upper end of the saddle, and goes down troughs and ledges until it reaches the ground. It’s easy once you know the way, but be careful if you haven’t done it before – some people have gotten off route and taken bad falls.

Getting There 

Scramble left from Lunch Rock to get to the base.

Climbing Season

Weather station 1.9 miles from here

10 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in (e) Maiden Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for (e) Maiden Buttress:
White Maiden's Walkaway   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 6 pitches, 800'   
Fool's Rush   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 6 pitches, 750'   
The Illegitimate   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 500'   
Zeno's Paradox   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in (e) Maiden Buttress

Featured Route For (e) Maiden Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down at the beginning of the flake.

Zeno's Paradox 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : (e) Maiden Buttress
This route can be reached from the first pitch of The Illegitimate (5.9.). Exit right from the belay to reach a large and green lichen covered flake(10c). Climb the flake up through a small roof and onto a steep face (10d). Some slabby moves will lead you up past two bolts (3/8") and then finish on a short section of the The Illegitimate for a belay at a large pine tree....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Comments on (e) Maiden Buttress Add Comment
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By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Sep 30, 2012
Roger Linfield is correct about the bad falls. Joe Fitchen took a monster fall down the south face of Lily Rock (Tahquitz) in the 1950's. Ellen Wilts talks about witnessing that famous fall, in an interview, on a video at the Idyllwild History Museum.

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